Engine Chosen..

[truracer20]

If the car doesn't run now and you want to do the clean up and painting yourself ahead of time then snap some pictures of the brackets before you remove them. For the most part though they're all old school small block brackets and most mechanics can figure them out easy. I wouldn't even re-install them. Let them cure and then store them in the trunk or something. I know when I pull an engine I take the accessories off first anyway.
I would also degrease and de-crud as much as possible before it goes to the shop. Unless they are willing to do it for you and agree to do it most shops won't clean the engine bay up. And it's just so satisfying to see a brand new engine in a clean engine compartment.
These things are where you can save labor costs and still get a beautiful result. Your engine bay looks like it would be an easy clean up. Just a little degreaser and scrubbing on the frame then some paint, and you can address the little bit of rust on the firewall without worrying too much about overspray. Hell get a hose and some detergent in there to, it's not like you're going to hurt the engine now. Just seal off the power steering cap and transmission dip stick.
I would stay away from the foaming Gunk brand degreaser, I used it and the regular during my last swap and the regular gave me much better results.

 

[gbodytoys]

thanks guys, you know what, I think I will get in there and start taking off some brackets. I might just start small, like with the alternator bracket...and see what I can do with that.

I'm not going to a shop, my mechanic works out of his backyard, so that's how I know I can come back there and clean up after he pulls the engine out. There's no reason I can't start the process now though, especially with some detergent and all that.

Oddly, someone on this forum contacted me a few days ago and he has a 406 small block for around 2k. That wouldn't have moved me, but he just so happens to live a whopping 2 minutes away, like seriously, right down the street and we both have the same car. "Gonna sell most everything except the intake,carb, Distributor,and a few pulleys.11to 1 compression,rpm performer heads,solid lifters,1.5 roller rockers,555 lift cam, hooker headers, " Hopefully I'll get a chance to see it this weekend w/ my mechanic. I did read some scary things about the 400 block having thinner walls.

 

[truracer20]

I'm not going to a shop, my mechanic works out of his backyard, so that's how I know I can come back there and clean up after he pulls the engine out. There's no reason I can't start the process now though, especially with some detergent and all that.

That's a big help for sure.

400's aren't all inherently bad. There are 350 blocks with thinner cylinder walls. I have taken 400's to +.040" but prefer not to go over +.030", stock cranks don't like a lot of RPM. The same goes if it has a good steel or forged crank but only the 2 bolt mains. 4 bolt mains or stud girdles help a lot. These issues may have been addressed since it has a solid lift cam.
Your intake will fit as well as your front accessories, except for the harmonic balancer it has to have an external balance dampner. Your starter will work. Your flexplate will work as long as you use a balance plate with it, http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+Be...gNVPOYjKcJcICv2CAxwtpkTY9uXvnTgg0LRoC8Urw_wcB The seller may even include one.
With an engine like this you can gain power by going with 1 3/4" headers. But you will be ok with your current headers as long as they are 1 5/8".
I would seriously recommend upgrading your cooling system if you still have the copper/brass radiator. Your current carb may be capable of being tuned to work with the 400. Your distributor will fit as well but I would have it checked out to make sure the advance curve suits the engine.
I'm sure the seller will have recommendations based on what he has found the engine to like.

It sounds like it would be a really fun powerplant

 

[gbodytoys]

just fyi, this is what I currently have...

Intake - Edelbrock Performer 2101
Carburetor - Holly 4150 - 4777-4

I have a MSD distributor, but I don't know the model number off top. The first shop I got absolutely RAPED by, installed it. I'm curious to see the engine, drive his monte, etc... He seems like a cool guy, but everyone seems like a cool guy.

 

[lilbowtie]

No matter how good of a deal the engine is I don't think it's right for you - it's not built for what you want. I believe that cam is probably a comps 306s (.555 lift & 260 dur @ 50) A great cam but you need to think of the whole package. That cam needs a convertor in the 3500 range, it would like a little more than 3.73 gears, and it's going to effect your vacuum for power brakes. That engine won't come to life till 3500 + and that's not what your looking for. The solid lifters are going to require a little attention and premium fuel a must + no warrantee. In your shoes w/ limited mechanical skills my vote would be for the Vortec roller.

 

[gbodytoys]

No matter how good of a deal the engine is I don't think it's right for you - it's not built for what you want. I believe that cam is probably a comps 306s (.555 lift & 260 dur @ 50) A great cam but you need to think of the whole package. That cam needs a convertor in the 3500 range, it would like a little more than 3.73 gears, and it's going to effect your vacuum for power brakes. That engine won't come to life till 3500 + and that's not what your looking for. The solid lifters are going to require a little attention and premium fuel a must + no warrantee. In your shoes w/ limited mechanical skills my vote would be for the Vortec roller.

how dare you come in my thread making sense lol. I didn't think about the stall...and the fact that the engine will destroy my trans and rear end within a month. I'm still going to check it out though, no harm in that.

 

[gbodytoys]

Well I went to go see the 406 motor and it was a BEAST. Very good looking engine, sounds great, went for a ride in his car and it threw me back in the seat for sure. Unfortunately I don't know if I can afford to support the motor...rear end, trans, cooling, etc. The compression was high...and like bowtie said, he has a 3200 stall. He doesn't even run pump gas lol. Great guy though. I hate to have experienced that power and might not be able to purchase it.

 

[Yav8]

Just get the motor and build the trans and converter as you go. You will always want that kind of power. The old saying, their is no replacement for displacement.

 

[gbodytoys]

settled with this engine

357ci (350 bored 40 over)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp89m

HP: 375+
TORQUE: 415+
Engine Type: Chevy Small Block V8
Displacement (cu.in): 350
Block: 4 Bolt main/Roller
Bore / Stoke: 4.040 X 3.480
Crankshaft: GM OE Crank
Rods: GM OE PM Rods
Pistons: Hypereutectic
Rings: Moly
Camshaft Type: HYD. Roller
Camshaft Lift: .528IN/.536EX
Camshaft Duration @.50: .220/.224
Cylinder Head Type: Pro-Filer Alum
Chamber Size: 64cc
Valve Size: 2.02 IN X 1.60 EX
Intake Runner Volume: 195cc
Compression Ratio: 10:1
Rocker Arm Type: Stamped Steel
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.6:1
Sheet Metal: Chrome V/C, T/C and Black O/P &
Recommended Fuel: 92 Octane
Ignition Timing: 36 Degrees Total Advance
Max RPM: 5800
Warranty: 24/Unlimited
Dyno Proven: YES
Weiand Stealth Intake
Pro-Filer American Made Heads

Intake Manifold Included:Yes
Cylinder Heads Included:Yes
Distributor Included:Yes
Oil Pan Included:Yes
Valve Covers Included:Yes
Timing Cover Included:Yes
Water Pump Included:Yes
Harmonic Balancer Included:Yes
Flexplate Included:Yes