They should have the 45 deg double flare set, the 37 deg is for A/N fittings. From past experiance, flaring tools are something that I am willing to top dollar for. I had gone cheap & had to do alot of rework untill I spent the money for better.
finally selling
- Thread starter Matthew Goeke
- Start date
- Status
i kinda f*cked myself over on this one, i can either buy a new flaring tool and drop a ton of money on it, i can buy a pre bent line and drop a ton of money on it, or i can keep retrying with a compression fitting and tools i already have, which isnt even a guarantee that will work.
Ribbedroof hit the nail on the head on compression fittings for brake lines. Safety inspectors will fail you with them on brake lines.
Most parts stores have pre flared brake lines in stock, measure how long a piece you need and bend as needed. Most line is just a few dollars per piece and is sold in either 6 inch increments or 1 foot increments.
the only reason i consider a compression fitting is because its the cheapest option. maybe if i keep the car i will actually replace every line when i get older, but i dont really plan on driving this car more than 300 miles a year
How many times do you suppose you will have to stop in those 300 miles?
No one ever plans on having a wreck, that's why they're called accidents. What happens when the compression fitting leaks or fails?
If you aren't going to do it right, leave it alone. Who do you think will be liable when that compression fitting fails for the new owner after you sell the car?
I think you're nitpicking over a few dollars on a critical item. Best bet is as 81 Regal suggested, buy an appropriate length of brake line with fittings on it and bend it to fit. Doesn't have to be an exact duplicate of the original shape as long as it is secure and leak-free
No one ever plans on having a wreck, that's why they're called accidents. What happens when the compression fitting leaks or fails?
If you aren't going to do it right, leave it alone. Who do you think will be liable when that compression fitting fails for the new owner after you sell the car?
I think you're nitpicking over a few dollars on a critical item. Best bet is as 81 Regal suggested, buy an appropriate length of brake line with fittings on it and bend it to fit. Doesn't have to be an exact duplicate of the original shape as long as it is secure and leak-free
We all know you just want to get rid of the car, but do you really want to risk someone's life? Sometimes it's just best to bite the bullet, and do it right. Replace the proportion valve, and any lines that are rusty or suspicious. Replace the front rubber lines if they show ANY signs of cracking or softness or bulging. Check the fluid, flush with new if it's dirty or burnt smelling. Once the job is done, drive it around the block SLOWLY. Test the brakes. Do a few 30ish mph panic stops. Anything you missed will show up there. DO. NOT. USE. COMPRESSION. FITTINGS. They aren't strong enough to withstand the constant abuse and super highpressures in an automotive braking system. You'd be lucky if it lasted through three pumps of the pedal. Just don't. And as others have said it will not pass any reputable inspections and in some places is flat out illegal.
I would say the least expensive brake line fix would be buying lengths from a local auto parts store and around here I know both Autozone and Oreilly's carry copper/nickel brake line which is very easy to bend and flare
I have found using a cloth tape measure to find the length of a bent brake line works best and you can tape or zip tie it to the line to make sure it is correct.
With the brake line removed from the car I also zip tie the new line to the old one as I make each bend so it stays tight and follows the contour of the original.
I have found using a cloth tape measure to find the length of a bent brake line works best and you can tape or zip tie it to the line to make sure it is correct.
With the brake line removed from the car I also zip tie the new line to the old one as I make each bend so it stays tight and follows the contour of the original.
Wants top dollar but will use the cheapest illegal fix as possible. Even if it kills the next owner.
Bad business
Bad business
Do yourself a favour. Put the whole idea of using compression fittings out of your head right now. They are NOT an option at all. They are absolutely not safe. They will not withstand the pressures in the braking system.
Have you tried to see if the bleeder screws will turn, or if they are seized? I know from experience that the rear bleeder screws can be difficult to free up if they are seized.
Repairs like this can tend to snowball. You should be prepared for that eventuality. If you're not prepared to fix the car properly and safely, then you should sell it as is. You would be better off, in terms of liability.
I understand that the car only has 22,000 miles on it, but I'm forced to wonder-if there is a steel brake line that has rotted out and failed, then what other issues are lurking in the shadows on this car?
Have you tried to see if the bleeder screws will turn, or if they are seized? I know from experience that the rear bleeder screws can be difficult to free up if they are seized.
Repairs like this can tend to snowball. You should be prepared for that eventuality. If you're not prepared to fix the car properly and safely, then you should sell it as is. You would be better off, in terms of liability.
I understand that the car only has 22,000 miles on it, but I'm forced to wonder-if there is a steel brake line that has rotted out and failed, then what other issues are lurking in the shadows on this car?
- Status
Similar threads
