First carb rebuild....success

[pontiacgp]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

it's not a good one here's a picture of it...you can see the tang of the stop. If it's on the backside it won't work right.

and this is a pretty good site on rebuilding a q jet in case you don't have a manual...

http://vetteprojects.com/kstyer/quadrajet.htm

 

[CamaroAdam73]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

In neither my book or that webguide does it mention the stop.., I know i've got the float, fulcrum (float pivot), needle and needle retaining spring, needle seat and gasket. What does this stop look like?

 

[pontiacgp]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

I call the needle with the seat the stop...it stops the gas...sorry for the confussion but I'm old and set in my ways...

 

[CamaroAdam73]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

Gotcha lol, well i've got it back apart and i'm checking/setting the float one more time, and checking everything else that i can to see what could possibly be wrong.

My only thought is if my float is correct, could it be the APT screw still holding the primary rods up enough to flood the engine?


*edit* checked the float and i have it set at 26/64, which is equal to 13/32. Guess it's not the float

 

[CamaroAdam73]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

Alright, the float is set to EXACTLY 13/31. APT screw is 3 turns out, the needle (stop), float, fulcrum, and everything has been quad checked and is in correctly. Both sets of rods seated correctly.

Air horn is tightened down with ALL of the mounting hardware, turns out i missed more than just two screws, i missed four.
It seals now.

Here's the problems, still runs like hell at idle, very rough the engine jerks allot.
When i shut down the car, i get allot of smoke from the carb, it slowly rolls out.

After it's been shut down for a good minute, if i operate the throttle by hand to open the plates, and look down into the intake runner though the barrels of the carb, with the throttle held open i can see the runners are pretty wet inside, the one has just the littlest bit of fuel built up in it. Also i see that there still remains a drip here and there of fuel from the primarys, but that could be because i'm holding the throttle open.

So, any ideas guys? I'm about ready to just take this carb over to someone who rebuilds them for a living :?:

 

[pontiacgp]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

you're not turning the carb upside down after you assemble it are you?....is the choke and the front breaker set up right and working correctly?...and another thing you can check is on the secondaries the air valve is fully closed and there enough tension on the spring to keep it closed

 

[CamaroAdam73]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

No i'm not turning it upside down, and i'm not using the choke i deleted it. And yeah the secondarys are setup correctly.

I'm having a friend who builds carbs take a look at it. I'm stumped and it floods the engine bad.

 

[pontiacgp]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

did you make sure the needle seat is screwed in tight and that the needle is sitting properly in the seat? Another thing what fuel pump are you using? No choke would make it idle rough until it warms up but it would NOT cause it to flood. One trick you can try remove the fuel line to the carb, plug it up and start the car and run it till the bowl runs dry then reattach the fuel line and see if that cures it.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

I'm glad you're still at it. The APT will NOT flood the carb. The idle circuit is a metered restriction independent of the power system, and is engineered so that even if screwed all the way out, cannot flood the motor. Opening the throttle operates the accelerator pump every time, which will squirt gas into the primary side, which will smoke on a hot motor and wet the floor of the intake. Let's go back to the beginning. What is the number on the side of the carb? What is the rebuild kit used? Was everything replaced new like needle/seat, float, pump parts,gaskets/seals? Was anything else changed or modified, like the choke? Was a "high-flow" inlet seat used? What are the jet and metering rod sizes and were they ever played with? What fuel pump, and is it a 3 hose return type with a working return line that has been checked for blockage? Is this a stock motor, or has it been modified, (cam,etc). Flooding is USUALLY caused by only 2 things- leaking needle/seat, and too high a float level. But a sinking float can raise the fuel level no matter how accurately it was set. I use brass floats, piss on those plastic ones. A "high-flow" inlet means more incoming fuel pressure which needs more float pressure to keep the fuel in check, that translates into several 32's LESS float height. A too-strong fuel pump can overcome the needle/seat. A return type pump that cannot return the excess fuel to the tank for whatever reason can overcome the needle/seat. The wrong jets/primary rods will cause the motor to run like crap. We WILL solve this. 8)

 

[Oldsmoletick]

Re: First carb rebuild....fail

You removed the choke? How much of it? Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak where the choke mechanism went through the body of the carb, or did you plug that off?