Flex fan

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= less than $40 for a "controller".
 
I dont think I understand. You're saying you gain 20 to 30 by swapping to electric?
I seen a video on line that had a 350 Chevy on the dyno. They tried all types of fans and the worst power loss was 30 hp and it was a mechanical fan. The electric fan used up 4 hp. I do not remember the link.
 
There is no power to be gained with different types of fans. They only provide a parasitic loss from having to slice through the air. According to engine masters video posted a little while ago, a stock clutch fan only takes 14hp. You'll never feel that driving around.

That is 14 HP nearly FREEWHEELING. Fulling locked up (behind a Hot radiator) its a lot more than than that. When my 2+2 was having high speed overheating issues and we were still using a clutching fan, the car sounded like a P-51 Mustang going by. It was probably more like 50 HP @ 5500 RPM than 14 HP.
 
That is 14 HP nearly FREEWHEELING. Fulling locked up (behind a Hot radiator) its a lot more than than that. When my 2+2 was having high speed overheating issues and we were still using a clutching fan, the car sounded like a P-51 Mustang going by. It was probably more like 50 HP @ 5500 RPM than 14 HP.
Sorry 2+2? How did you solve your heating issues?
 
Sorry 2+2? How did you solve your heating issues?

Replacing the clutching fan with a dual electric fan helped a lot. The extra 50 or so HP needed to run the fan made the motor run even hotter.
We added a 6" deep core support air dam to increase flow through the radiator and blocked off the upper grill to reduce front end lift.
Front end lift is a major driver of very high speed overheating on a G-body as it pressurizes the back side of the radiator, reducing flow through the radiator. The intercooled Turbos are the worst for this, because the actually pipe air to the wrong side of the radiator.
 
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What are those off of? Do they actually last?

A temp switch grounds the 86/85 circuit on the relay and turns on the fan. Both should be good for 100's of thousands of cycles. If the relays fails, unplug it and plug in another. They are only $4.
 
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A temp switch grounds the 86/85 circuit on the relay and turns on the fan. Both should be good for 100's of thousands of cycles. If the relays fails, unplug it and plug in another. They are only $4.
I actually had a temp switch fail, twice. It's been good so far. I teed a female spade into the relay trigger, and have a male screwed to the firewall. That way, I can run the fans manually without the thermo switch.
 
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I actually had a temp switch fail, twice. It's been good so far. I teed a female spade into the relay trigger, and have a male screwed to the firewall. That way, I can run the fans manually without the thermo switch.

Since the control amps are low, you can easily run a backup ground from an in car switch to the to the thermoswitch wire, just in case... or just ground it a piece of bailing wire or coat hanger you keep in the trunk and wrap around something metal under the hood in an emergency (really just in case). If the fans are wired to "run" + they will come on with the key, but the car won't overheat until the temp switch is fixed.
 
Does anybody ever consider the current draw from an E- fan introducing parasitic resistance to the alternator and belt drive(s)? An old school mechanic and good friend introduced that theory to me, yet I've never seen it measured. A fan is a motor, and can draw substantial amperage...

I was referring to the current draw as if it actually creates resistance on the drive belts like a clutch fan would. Can anybody answer if an alternator spinning at let's say 5k rpms with a 100 amp load on it creates more drag than if there was a 10 amp load? Or do alternators spin just as freely with a large current draw as they would without?

It looks like nobody has yet given you a clear, direct answer to your question. The short answer is yes, this has been measured... and an electric fan typically draws 1 HP or less compared to the same engine with the same alternator spinning but not powering the fan. Here are two pages from a relevant Car Craft dyno test answering this exact question:

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As you can see, going from no alternator to an unloaded alternator cost 1.0 horsepower, and then powering the electric fan only required an additional 0.6 horsepower in drag. Alternators are extremely efficient at making electricity.
 
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