Floor pan DIY or not?

[TheCoroner]

Our Cutlass wagon needs floor pans.
Front and rear on both sides are pretty much shot, trans tunnel is good, so it looks like doing the complete left and right pans might be the best option.

Obviously DIY is cheaper, but how difficult of a project is this going to be? I'm a quick learner, I've done complete axle swaps, top end rebuilds, etc.. without experience or outside help.
I'm just really green when it comes to welding. My experience is limited to goofing around with a $99 Harbor Freight flux core arc welder.From what I've read, MIG is the way to go.

Can a newbie tackle a project like this?
I don't have a 220 line here, will a 110 MIG be adequate?

Aside from the MIG setup, clamps, and holding magnets, I have all the other necessary tools.

Thanks in advance.

 

[81Regal]

110 welder will work, I did a full pan swap in my El Camino but had to put it in from the bottom. If you do sections or half pan you can drop it in from top. Measure twice before cutting and take your time welding the floor in you will do just fine.

 

[TURNA]

With rot like that there is a very good chance you will need body mounts as well body mount perches.

 

[UNGN]

I have a 220 Lincoln Welder and the $89 110 HF welder and I pretty much use the HF welder for everything.

Once you get the settings right, the flux core will be fine. (You just have to grind off more of the little oxide splatter balls). Lots of little skip stitches and patience.

 

[565bbchevy]

I would also be looking hard at the inner and outer rockers to see how solid those are since that is what you will being welding your floor pans to.

 

[TheCoroner]

110 welder will work, I did a full pan swap in my El Camino but had to put it in from the bottom. If you do sections or half pan you can drop it in from top. Measure twice before cutting and take your time welding the floor in you will do just fine.

I was hoping going through the top would work. I've seen it done on roadkill, and it looks much easier, especially not having a lift here. I appreciate the advice, the first time doing a project is always a little daunting.

With rot like that there is a very good chance you will need body mounts as well body mount perches.

I'll take a look at the rest of the mounts today. The car was sitting outside, covered, but the tires had gone flat, so I'm hoping it's just just an accelerated rot situation due to ground contact. I know that the passenger front mount fell out, but it sounds like a really common issue.

I have a 220 Lincoln Welder and the $89 110 HF welder and I pretty much use the HF welder for everything.

Once you get the settings right, the flux core will be fine. (You just have to grind off more of the little oxide splatter balls). Lots of little skip stitches and patience.

You're a far better welder than I am lol I practiced with the HF welder, and all I've done is blow holes through scrap.
I'll give it another shot. I did just pick up a new 10# spool I can play with.
I'd like to convert it to DCEN at some point to minimize the splatter. They're AC welders to begin with. Here's the guide I have bookmarked: http://www.blinkenbyte.org/welder_conversion/welder_conversion.html
I appreciate the response, thank you.

I would also be looking hard at the inner and outer rockers to see how solid those are since that is what you will being welding your floor pans to.

The outer rockers are almost mint. When I pulled the trim, the clips were rusty, but there's no rot, and only a small amount of surface rust. I'd say the outer rockers are 9/10. And the inner feel about 7-8/10.
Thanks for the help

I'll see about taking a few pictures today.

 

[pontiacgp]

Before I would start with the floor pans I'd take the body off the car so you can see what condition the body and body mount locations are in. If you are a novice welder you would want to flip the body to weld in new metal for body mounts if needed. Welding up isn't the easiest thing to do. Also with the age of these cars the life of the rubber body bushings has expired.

 

[Sleeperchevy454]

Also do only a tack welds and not in the same place long so ya don't warp the steel.the grinder is pretty good at warping steel too just do like two tacks the move to the other side do a few tacksmove again it's kind of a bummer but will be glad ya did it in the end don't stay in the same place long with the grinder cause it will get it just as hot as welding it...I have learned from my mistakes!!!

 

[TheCoroner]

Before I would start with the floor pans I'd take the body off the car so you can see what condition the body and body mount locations are in. If you are a novice welder you would want to flip the body to weld in new metal for body mounts if needed. Welding up isn't the easiest thing to do. Also with the age of these cars the life of the rubber body bushings has expired.

A frame off is likely outside outside of the equipment I have available, and definitely outside of the help I have available. Me, myself, and I. My girlfriend pitches in when she can.
If there was a frame off, I'll have to pay to have it done. I'm guessing that'll run well outside of the current DIY budget. I'm definitely going to keep it in mind, as I've thought about it a bit in the past. Thanks for the reply.

 

[TheCoroner]

Outer on the driver side.