Front Lower Control arm Bolts and Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings

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clemsparks

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 26, 2009
33
7
8
Columbia MO
:unsure: But, it's "not a tractor...." :p

No, and I'm not even a little bit happy that I wasn't able to get the original, seized bolts out without some minor damage to the frame. I would not have been any more or less happy had I been working on one of my tractors, either.
 
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clemsparks

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 26, 2009
33
7
8
Columbia MO
well. I have to say the bolts were not the culprit. I Feel better about the better fit, but it's still making the noise. I guess it almost has to be the spring making the noise now. I really appreciate all the help here.
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
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A few possibilities to check for the noise:
-Perhaps a cotter pin was missed and the castle nut backed off.
-Shims could have fallen out causing the cross shaft to move on the frame bolt
-Were the UCA bushings replaced as well?
 
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clemsparks

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 26, 2009
33
7
8
Columbia MO
A few possibilities to check for the noise:
-Perhaps a cotter pin was missed and the castle nut backed off.
-Shims could have fallen out causing the cross shaft to move on the frame bolt
-Were the UCA bushings replaced as well?

Thanks.

The castle nuts are all properly tightened and cotter pins in place. The upper control arms are tight (they've been replaced in the process of trying to solve this). two different pairs of upper control arms (stock with urethane bushings, and speedway tubular) have been installed and the noise is unchanged.

Really the only thing I haven't done is re-replace the (brand new moog) lower ball joint. Everything else has been back apart, inspected, and reassembled MULTIPLE times. And it's all new.

The only thing at is not brand new on the front suspension is the stamped, factory lower control arms. I did sandblast them and install new ball joints and bushings. The spindle is stock/factory, but I have no reason to believe it is causing this (again...ball joints are tight).

I can't re-create this by bouncing the car by hand. Only while driving, so far, have I been able to do it. I think it happens mostly when the driver side lifts (sharply turn the wheel to the left).
 

KCP

Master Mechanic
Oct 11, 2018
421
1,004
93
Bavaria, Germany
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While installing the Energy Suspension kit into the lowers today, I ran into a real problem. The shells for the lower fronts are too short by 1". Anyone else can confirm from own experience? I could reuse the old shell on one side, but the other side collapsed pressing out. So work on hold right now until ES answers.
 
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pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
9,128
15,257
113
Elderton, Pa
I don't remember an issue like that when mine were pressed in. I'll have to get out to the garage & take a look at it but I thought there were two different lenth bushings for the front & rear of the arm.
 

Macguyver

SOUTHSIDE MACHINE PERFORMANCE
GBodyForum Sponsor
Mar 21, 2017
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You simply do not have the correct parts.
 

KCP

Master Mechanic
Oct 11, 2018
421
1,004
93
Bavaria, Germany
I sent these pics to Energy Suspension tech support and they immediatly took care of it. The shells are indeed the wrong ones, so someone in packaging must have had a bad hair day. They even sent me the BOM with the measurements to check.
Long story short, Energy Suspension got out of their way and took care of the problem without any discussion. The right shells are on the way to Germany on their dime (y).
 
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