Fuel line won't seal.....

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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
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I have Classic on my truck and Right Stuff on the 67. I've cut the IT kit up for custom lines because they wouldn't take it back.

565, the Cunifer doesn't rust, BUT the tube nuts do! I just leaned that the hard way, and replaced with SS.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,614
12,683
113
Michigan
565, the Cunifer doesn't rust, BUT the tube nuts do! I just leaned that the hard way, and replaced with SS.
Mine have a plating on them and the Regal sat outside for the first year and a half after doing them and they still look the same.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,614
12,683
113
Michigan
Thanks for the tip...I might just try that...saved all my old tubing for reference.Never did any flaring before but seen it done,i think I can do it.
I used this on every brake line on my Regal, you can bend this tubing by hand and I zip tied it to my original lines as I would make each bend to make sure it matched.
The front lines I wrapped around a piece of tubing to get the coils and double flaring is a breeze with this tubing since it conforms so well.
I spent around $100 total and still probably have enough line and fittings to do another GBody.
 
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pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
20,391
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Kitchener, Ontario
Thanks for the tip...I might just try that...saved all my old tubing for reference.Never did any flaring before but seen it done,i think I can do it.

you might want to practice with a few pieces making the flairs with the cunifer. It's pretty soft so it takes less pressure than do a steel line.
 
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melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
4,162
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mass
that copper/nickel is sweet,you can buy the tube nuts in stainless for a nice touch.i bought some pre-bent the stainless.but even the annealed stuff is a huge pain.i had the two flared @a hydraulic shop.never again.
 

Onehit

Greasemonkey
Mar 5, 2013
233
395
63
Old Bridge, New Jersey
Okay well with the new fuel pump and a little bit of Teflon tape at the pump side, I got this fuel line to seal no more leaks. I had spin the top clamp on the thermostat housing to get it to sit just right.
1522980023567540853502.jpg
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,168
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Okay well with the new fuel pump and a little bit of Teflon tape at the pump side, I got this fuel line to seal no more leaks. I had spin the top clamp on the thermostat housing to get it to sit just right.
View attachment 86269

Try your best to get that Teflon tape out of there. As mentioned before, gasoline WILL eat it, and it WILL start to leak again.

The way those fittings are designed, 100% of your sealing comes from the fitment of the flared surfaces, NOT from the threads. That is the difference between flared fittings and pipe thread fittings. Pipe thread seals on the threads as they’re tapered. The more you turn a pipe thread fitting in, the tighter it gets and the better it will seal. Flared fittings like the one you’re dealing with do not work the same way.
Just a quick education in case you didn’t know.

And FWIW, I’m an air compressor tech and deal with fittings every day building complete compressed air systems so I know my fittings.

Good luck with it, it’s looking great. Don’t get discouraged, it’s all just part of the game.
 
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Monte4ever

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 18, 2018
25
65
13
Google Parker 2GF-3 45 Degree Fitting, Flare, Brass, Flare Gasket, 3/16". I had the same problem with their SS lines going from the hard line to flex line junction at the rear end and at the proportional valve. These gaskets hooked me right up. I'm not sure of what size you need but I'm sure they have what you need.
 
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Onehit

Greasemonkey
Mar 5, 2013
233
395
63
Old Bridge, New Jersey
Try your best to get that Teflon tape out of there. As mentioned before, gasoline WILL eat it, and it WILL start to leak again.

The way those fittings are designed, 100% of your sealing comes from the fitment of the flared surfaces, NOT from the threads. That is the difference between flared fittings and pipe thread fittings. Pipe thread seals on the threads as they’re tapered. The more you turn a pipe thread fitting in, the tighter it gets and the better it will seal. Flared fittings like the one you’re dealing with do not work the same way.
Just a quick education in case you didn’t know.

And FWIW, I’m an air compressor tech and deal with fittings every day building complete compressed air systems so I know my fittings.

Good luck with it, it’s looking great. Don’t get discouraged, it’s all just part of the game.
Thanks for the heads up I'm not comfortable with the Teflon tape on there either I'm actually looking for another line
 
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