Gbody LS Swap Info

The mounts are designed to fit with the frame mounts bolted down, then lower the clamshell over them and insert bolt. If you install like you have done, you will never be able to remove the clamshell bolt and reinstall it. If the frame mounts are mounted correctly, the clamshell will line up with the proper rubber mount. It appears that the frame mounts are a long way from the proper position on the crossmember. It also looks like the clamshell is mounted about an inch forward of the original mount location on a traditional SBC engine. Your adapter may have several mount locations, fore and aft for the clamshell.
Unfortunately that is not the case with my care I bolted them in the stock hole location and the weren't even close. I'm not new at putting motors in so I know how the mounts are "supposed" to work. And yes with the mounts like that the clam shells slip over them and the bolt slides in. My frame just seems to be shorter then the newer ones
 
I am new to this and I am trying to determine the best way to resolve my fuel tank/supply needs.

I am putting a 4.8L in a 1980 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon. It is carbed currently. Trying to be as budget friendly as possible.

Does anyone sell a sending unit that will fit the stock tank that will accept an in tank EFI pump?
Should I sump my stock tank?
Should I run a sumped cell with external pump
Should I switch to a GN Tank, sender and in tank pump?
 
You need a 92ish 4.3 astro van fuel sender which almost is a direct fit and reuses your stock tank. Wagon stock left astro right.


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You need to cut off the clocking tabs and it drops in. No sumping, no special tanks, works well.
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Good,. I bought one yesterday. Question: If you cut off the clocking tabs will it still lock in the tank? It's been a Long time since i've fooled with a sending unit and I cannot remember

You need a 92ish 4.3 astro van fuel sender which almost is a direct fit and reuses your stock tank. Wagon stock left astro right.


View attachment 112652

You need to cut off the clocking tabs and it drops in. No sumping, no special tanks, works well.
View attachment 112653
 
While this thread is up top, I'll add my findings with headers. I recently bought some Speed Engineering 1-3/4" long tube headers for the 5.3/4L80E in my 87 Cutlass. For the record, I'm running ICT 1" setback mounts with stock clamshells and a G force x member for the 80E. Overall, they look really nice and fit well for stainless headers that only cost $270!!!! The header flange is thick, the welds are nice, and the collectors/O2 bungs line up nicely!
They will require a couple dings to a primary tube or two, but they're a helluva lot cheaper than some of the other options.
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Hi new here! I’m currently doing a 5.3 swap in a 85 el camino and into the finishing side of it. I have a few questions if anyone has finished one yet. I got a bp auto stand alone wiring kit but I’m trying to figure out what wires from the factory harness I can cut away and what I need to go where. Thank you in advance
 

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Well she fits nicely turns on and off by key still have along way to go on cleaning up and making it 100% but super please for my first ls swap! Thanks to all for the help!
 

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Subscribed..... I started this project back in 2004. The last year it was plated. Anywho, I'm down to relocating the AC compressor, getting a radiator, and the driveshaft.
 
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