you're going to have to put a disclaimer on some of your posts....
Maybe we need to go back to blue font for sarcasmGbody oil light and battery light issue
- Thread starter Albert714
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Maybe we need to go back to blue font for sarcasm
Im confused what seems to be the problem ? I’m just asking for help or advice so I can get my gbody running
The plug only fits one way if it is intact. What pontiacgp is saying is correct. Of the 2 wires in the plug, 1 is the "excite" wire and is tied to the "volts" light in the dash. The other is a "sense" wire for the regulator and just goes to the charge post. Ignition on should kick 12v+ to the "excite" wire.
I think you have a ground problem, though.
I think you have a ground problem, though.
Ok thank you I’ll check my grounds later appreciate the help
Do theses car have a ground going to alternator I notice mine doesn’t have a ground
Just an update
so ground is fine had a buddy of mine come help me and we noticed that when I first start the car the voltage battery light is off and only reads at 12.75 volts after I gas it abit the battery voltage light on dash comes on that’s when my alternator starts working and voltmeter reads 14.50
so ground is fine had a buddy of mine come help me and we noticed that when I first start the car the voltage battery light is off and only reads at 12.75 volts after I gas it abit the battery voltage light on dash comes on that’s when my alternator starts working and voltmeter reads 14.50
Some of these guys have known each other, at least on the forum for years. Until you have been around awhile, sometimes it's like they speak a foreign language using English words. They are not messing with you. When you ask a question, make sure you connect the answer to the specific question that was asked. Sometimes, things get out of order and glorious confusion reigns
The problem is: that's the exact opposite of how it's spoda work. Does the light go out if you unplug the 2 pin on the side while it's running? My take is this: the battery is crap- probably a shorted cell. New alternator goes in, battery kills alternator, light comes on. Yes, 14.5v is correct, BUT your battery should rest closer to 13.2-.8, not 12.75.
The oil light means swap in a Buick 350 😀
i jest
If it's a 231, it's probably about to die. The 231 had an electric choke switched on by an oil pressure switch in the bock above the oil filter. 4psi of oil pressure closes the normally (when off) open circuit and feeds power from the fuse box through the switch to the choke. So, if the car is running, power to the choke. Cant run battery dead leaving key on or prematurely open choke by accident.
That light only comes on if there is a break in that simple circuit (or the choke element is bad, choke flap will be uh... flappy, even with the engine warm) and isnt holding the choke open. Or the engine is about to die. Or someone monkeyed with the wires.
if it's a 5.0 oldsmobile v8, weak oil pump is the only case as they use a hot air choke. no electricity there.
Also, tell us a little about the car. What engine, is it still stock, etc. Help us narrow down the issue.
i jest
If it's a 231, it's probably about to die. The 231 had an electric choke switched on by an oil pressure switch in the bock above the oil filter. 4psi of oil pressure closes the normally (when off) open circuit and feeds power from the fuse box through the switch to the choke. So, if the car is running, power to the choke. Cant run battery dead leaving key on or prematurely open choke by accident.
That light only comes on if there is a break in that simple circuit (or the choke element is bad, choke flap will be uh... flappy, even with the engine warm) and isnt holding the choke open. Or the engine is about to die. Or someone monkeyed with the wires.
if it's a 5.0 oldsmobile v8, weak oil pump is the only case as they use a hot air choke. no electricity there.
Also, tell us a little about the car. What engine, is it still stock, etc. Help us narrow down the issue.
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