Mine was on the alternator bracket until it came loose and fried the small wire grounded to the fender because of the tremendous amperage wanting to return to the battery. Now it is connected to the thermostat housing.
Gbody oil light and battery light issue
- Thread starter Albert714
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Convenience. Simply because of the length of the cable. It was perfect without having to leave it hanging and being in the way of working on other things, and is an easy location for removal if needed.why tstat? no other holes?
Car runs fine I bought almost 2 years ago originally car had a v8 previous owner swapped a v6 in it it’s been running good till the alternator went out all this startedThe oil light means swap in a Buick 350
i jest
If it's a 231, it's probably about to die. The 231 had an electric choke switched on by an oil pressure switch in the bock above the oil filter. 4psi of oil pressure closes the normally (when off) open circuit and feeds power from the fuse box through the switch to the choke. So, if the car is running, power to the choke. Cant run battery dead leaving key on or prematurely open choke by accident.
That light only comes on if there is a break in that simple circuit (or the choke element is bad, choke flap will be uh... flappy, even with the engine warm) and isnt holding the choke open. Or the engine is about to die. Or someone monkeyed with the wires.
if it's a 5.0 oldsmobile v8, weak oil pump is the only case as they use a hot air choke. no electricity there.
Also, tell us a little about the car. What engine, is it still stock, etc. Help us narrow down the issue.
I have a brand new yellow top optima battery and a regular group 78 battery and the alternator is new I swapped it out already 3 times
Yes it’s completely stock 231 v6The oil light means swap in a Buick 350
i jest
If it's a 231, it's probably about to die. The 231 had an electric choke switched on by an oil pressure switch in the bock above the oil filter. 4psi of oil pressure closes the normally (when off) open circuit and feeds power from the fuse box through the switch to the choke. So, if the car is running, power to the choke. Cant run battery dead leaving key on or prematurely open choke by accident.
That light only comes on if there is a break in that simple circuit (or the choke element is bad, choke flap will be uh... flappy, even with the engine warm) and isnt holding the choke open. Or the engine is about to die. Or someone monkeyed with the wires.
if it's a 5.0 oldsmobile v8, weak oil pump is the only case as they use a hot air choke. no electricity there.
Also, tell us a little about the car. What engine, is it still stock, etc. Help us narrow down the issue.
Never had an issue before except it kinda jerking here and there while driving like if it wanted to bog out like if i was gassing it and stop I’m not sure if this make sense
use a small bulb in a socket and attach one wire to the B stud on the alternator and the other attach it to the #1 on the alternator. The light should be on, start the engine and the light should go out and the alternator charging. If that works then the problem is the alternator is not getting excited
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