GBody Rear Disk Brake upgrade... detailed!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Kudos for the write up. Just to add to this, I've done this swap using the S10 Sonoma/Blazer equipped with rear disc set up. These set ups are more plentiful in the yards than the LS stuff. The procedure is the same. Hard to tell but the S10 Sonoma/ Blazer set up seems alittle more narrower than the LS set up. I haven't installed my set up yet on the car and can't tell if it clears the frame. The LS set up looks like it wont clear the frame.
 
nice video thanks was worried about your foot there for a minute when you was cutting the flange out on the first video... always cut away from your body !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
malibu80 said:
Kudos for the write up. Just to add to this, I've done this swap using the S10 Sonoma/Blazer equipped with rear disc set up. These set ups are more plentiful in the yards than the LS stuff. The procedure is the same. Hard to tell but the S10 Sonoma/ Blazer set up seems alittle more narrower than the LS set up. I haven't installed my set up yet on the car and can't tell if it clears the frame. The LS set up looks like it wont clear the frame.
Im not understanding what you are saying, as far as the LS setup wont clear the frame... check out my other thread, this WORKS! and has been proven to work... and I made another video public (all my vids are private), that shows it working
 
warmonga said:
nice video thanks was worried about your foot there for a minute when you was cutting the flange out on the first video... always cut away from your body !!!!!!!!!!!!!
if you are referring to me cutting the passenger side of the housing end (flange), then yes you are correct you should cut away from you... thank you for your concern... however I put myself in the most comfortable position as was possible for me, being that I have a serious back injury and i cannot move the rearend around and do any of the heavy stuff myself... so I did the best i could with what I have to deal with... I am very careful when i operate any power tools and I pay attention as best I can... thanks for watching!
 
LS on your set up does the rotor sit in the center of the calliper?. On my 8.2 which is similar to the 12 bolt I used the F body calliper brackets, (filled the holes and redrilled on one of them so both calliper sits on the backside) and found the F body rotors did not sit in the center of the 1980 Seville callipers with the pads installed. I used a 1/8" shim in between the flange on the axle tube and the calliper bracket to center it. I also had to get the axle flange machined to fit in the F body rotor.

You did a nice job on your conversion and the video will be a big help to anyone doing a conversion
 
pontiacgp said:
LS on your set up does the rotor sit in the center of the calliper?. On my 8.2 which is similar to the 12 bolt I used the F body calliper brackets, (filled the holes and redrilled on one of them so both calliper sits on the backside) and found the F body rotors did not sit in the center of the 1980 Seville callipers with the pads installed. I used a 1/8" shim in between the flange on the axle tube and the calliper bracket to center it. I also had to get the axle flange machined to fit in the F body rotor.

You did a nice job on your conversion and the video will be a big help to anyone doing a conversion

thank you... and it does seem a little off centered in the PAB, which I explain in the vid and pretty much how to correct it, if you want to, same way you corrected yours and it does seem an 1/8" too, but I didnt measure it exactly...

did not have to machine the flanges, but on my Ford 9" I had to have them machined down to fit the c6 z06 setup... so maybe in my next few vids on upgrading the rearend, I may do the spacer just to show others how to, and talk about if the flange doesnt fit right...
 
LSCustoms said:
84mcVegas said:
quick question on relocating shock? .. thanks for great detail videos by the way .
you do the relocating shock for what reason ? to clear from hitting rim or brake caliper?
because I am putting the calipers to the rear, there is no (or no adequate) clearance between the shock and the caliper, in the video, the pics show the clearance after the shocks are relocated, i should have added pics of them before...

but in short, to provide clearance between the caliper and the shock...

I haven't watched the entire video yet due to internet issues, but do you have to put the calipers to the rear? can you put them to the front?
 
307 Regal said:
LSCustoms said:
84mcVegas said:
quick question on relocating shock? .. thanks for great detail videos by the way .
you do the relocating shock for what reason ? to clear from hitting rim or brake caliper?
because I am putting the calipers to the rear, there is no (or no adequate) clearance between the shock and the caliper, in the video, the pics show the clearance after the shocks are relocated, i should have added pics of them before...

but in short, to provide clearance between the caliper and the shock...

I haven't watched the entire video yet due to internet issues, but do you have to put the calipers to the rear? can you put them to the front?
in short yes, but to be honest I cant remember what happened when I did my first housing and what clearance issues etc. (pros and cons) occurred if any... so you would have to mock it all up and resolve any issues, if any that arise... I will go back and check my notes, or when i put the rear on the el co to move the el co, i will see if I can remember...
 
LSCustoms said:
malibu80 said:
Kudos for the write up. Just to add to this, I've done this swap using the S10 Sonoma/Blazer equipped with rear disc set up. These set ups are more plentiful in the yards than the LS stuff. The procedure is the same. Hard to tell but the S10 Sonoma/ Blazer set up seems alittle more narrower than the LS set up. I haven't installed my set up yet on the car and can't tell if it clears the frame. The LS set up looks like it wont clear the frame.
Im not understanding what you are saying, as far as the LS setup wont clear the frame... check out my other thread, this WORKS! and has been proven to work... and I made another video public (all my vids are private), that shows it working

On my setup the caliper sits right next to the snubber on the rearend. If the rear was to bottom out for some reason the caliper would contact the frame first. Like I said its going to be very close on my set up. I've got maybe an 1/8" between the caliper and the rubber snubber .
 
LSCustoms said:
warmonga said:
nice video thanks was worried about your foot there for a minute when you was cutting the flange out on the first video... always cut away from your body !!!!!!!!!!!!!
if you are referring to me cutting the passenger side of the housing end (flange), then yes you are correct you should cut away from you... thank you for your concern... however I put myself in the most comfortable position as was possible for me, being that I have a serious back injury and i cannot move the rearend around and do any of the heavy stuff myself... so I did the best i could with what I have to deal with... I am very careful when i operate any power tools and I pay attention as best I can... thanks for watching!


well I dont want to see you without a foot now you surely won't be able to make videos hopping around.. 🙂
anyway thanks for the video, its everything needed for a person to do there own swap.....

warmonga
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor