Getting close, time for the dumb questions lol.

[cutlass79]

dam thats messed up $6000 and ur having that many probs out of it.that much u shouldent have to thouch a dam thing for a few year sep doin oil and maybe plugs and wires

 

[axisg]

LOL this will take longer to type than fix;

first - in your picture there is a rigid steel tube bent in a u-shape and resting between 2 ignition wires... its about 1/4" and right there in front on the vacuum can on your distributor. This line popped out of the piece of rubber hose right behind the carb. Put that back in the tubing and make sure it's tight ( use a hose clamp if you have to ). This is full manifold vacuum and the line if unconnected will likely keep your trans from upshifting and cause a huge vacuum leak and idle problems

second - the tan line is for your HVAC and should be connected to full manifold vacuum. This is what supplies the vacuum to pull your blend door open and closed on AC equipped cars. Without it hooked up you will only have defrost setting on the car ( no heat, no blend, ect... )

The plug which comes off your manifold ( the one your car has the open ended rubber hose sticking out of it ) should have 2 nipples off it. The centre one is for the kickdown, the other is for the HVAC

Off the carb should only be:
front - PCV & Vacuum Advance for the dist
*** I notice your vacuum advance on the distributor is capped so where is the vacuum from the front of your carb going now ?
Back - steel line to your brake booster
all other openings should be capped

To fix the kickdown cable it needs a cheap $20.00 adjustable bracket so you can line up the kickdown cable geometry ( pretty much a given with any aftermarket carb )

Regarding all the hoses: The line draped accross the DS fender can be capped until you sort out getting the motor running right and figure out what it does anyways. Same goes for all the stuff plugged into your thermostat housing as it doesn't look like you have any emissions components on the car now anyways.

The bolt on the firewall is for your ground strap

 

[cutlass79]

dam thats messed up $6000 and ur having that many probs out of it.that much u shouldent have to thouch a dam thing for a few year sep doin oil and maybe plugs and wires

o and when i had a spot diping off the harmonic balancer like shoed in ur last pic it was coming form the right side of the water pump.i i found it by putting purple food coloring in the coolent so i could see where it was coming form worked out really nice with my block being painted red

 

[pontiacgp]

for the coolant leak I'd be looking at the hoses, it looks like it's spraying and your idler arm and sway bar even appears to be wet along with the front of the engine

 

[axisg]

I goofed: the tan line goes to the valve in your heater hose ( although the valve is usually located closer to the firewall and I notice yours is over the alternator ). Once you turn on the AC it allows vacuum thru that tan line and pulls the valve closed so no more hot water enters the heater core. On my car I hook it to full vacuum every summer to keep the car cooler.

LOL this will take longer to type than fix;

first - in your picture there is a rigid steel tube bent in a u-shape and resting between 2 ignition wires... its about 1/4" and right there in front on the vacuum can on your distributor. This line popped out of the piece of rubber hose right behind the carb. Put that back in the tubing and make sure it's tight ( use a hose clamp if you have to ). This is full manifold vacuum and the line if unconnected will likely keep your trans from upshifting and cause a huge vacuum leak and idle problems

second - the tan line is for your HVAC and should be connected to full manifold vacuum. This is what supplies the vacuum to pull your blend door open and closed on AC equipped cars. Without it hooked up you will only have defrost setting on the car ( no heat, no blend, ect... )

The plug which comes off your manifold ( the one your car has the open ended rubber hose sticking out of it ) should have 2 nipples off it. The centre one is for the kickdown, the other is for the HVAC

Off the carb should only be:
front - PCV & Vacuum Advance for the dist
*** I notice your vacuum advance on the distributor is capped so where is the vacuum from the front of your carb going now ?
Back - steel line to your brake booster
all other openings should be capped

To fix the kickdown cable it needs a cheap $20.00 adjustable bracket so you can line up the kickdown cable geometry ( pretty much a given with any aftermarket carb )

Regarding all the hoses: The line draped accross the DS fender can be capped until you sort out getting the motor running right and figure out what it does anyways. Same goes for all the stuff plugged into your thermostat housing as it doesn't look like you have any emissions components on the car now anyways.

The bolt on the firewall is for your ground strap

 

[307 Regal]

Man, whoever you took your car to didn't do a very good job..

EDIT: and I'm probably being overly fair to this "mechanic" by not throwing in profanity. lol

 

[cutlass79]

ok so the link i posted http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new ... 0/1402.pdf <<this one shoed i have the vac lins hooked up for a emissisons motor and i have a non emissisons motor so i went out and hook it up for a non emissisons motor and its all ****ed up seems like it need a full time and tune i did the time and tune while it was hooked up for emissisons i dident kno it could make that much of a dif.this morning it started right up and ran fine now it wont start and i got gas coming out the carb its nuts.i take and hook it back up how i had it strats and runs fine while it running i try to hook it back up for non emissisons and its dies with in a min and wont start back up is this right does it really make that much of a dif? that i will have to do a full retime and tune

i dont see how it could make that much of a dif cuz when u time a motor u unhook the vac line time it then hook that vac back up right? but now i got gas shoting out the carb and when i stop turning the key the motor still trys to turn over then trys to turn the wrong way b4stoping like its just way the hell out of time i never thought vac lines could make a dif like this?

anyone kno y im having the probs im having just redong a few vac lines?

 

[pontiacgp]

Man, whoever you took your car to didn't do a very good job..

EDIT: and I'm probably being overly fair to this "mechanic" by not throwing in profanity. lol

shhhhhh...he already tried to dump us once...we have to keep him interested in getting his car going, not looking back.. 🙂

 

[79olds]

Ok the steel tube goes to your trans so hook that up to that tee behind the carb get rid of that valve openor on your coolant line and just replace it with a straight port 1 Napa has them and buy a vacuum guage when car is in park turn on car let it idle adjust screws on front of carb turn in until it about to die then start turning them out until the vacuum guage stops at its highest vacuum then repeat with other screw then put car in drive holding brake adjust screws again to highest point of vacuum

 

[79olds]

Ok here comes the bad news the msd streetfire is a pos it has a slow igintion curve and control module and coil are exactly like a stock gm hei so here comes the fun part you have a custom motor so you need to buy aftermarket weights and spring for your msd to bring the mechanical advance faster trust me once you do this you'll love your car it will good throttle response etc and since you got hi comp ratio you need to run colder plugs close that gap to 38 35 etc then you got to check your plugs and tune your carb change out the jets springs and rods edelbrock sells a tuning kit for your carb