Help, metal in oil
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Greetings Mr.383 GP; Pull the #1 rod cap for SURE as this is the last bearing to get oil! At this point I'd plastic gage all the bearings & write down the clearances. From my experience it looks a little tight? After you put it back together again be SURE to run break in oil 5-6 7 Quarts what ever you require or GM EOS. Then again after break in I would run a 10-30 VR1 in this engine as I mentioned it looks tight too me. But my reference point may be from a different perspective. Ole, Bob.
Ps: On second thought I would hold off on the heaver 10-30 oil & run 5-20 with another quart of GM EOS after break in. Just my .02 cents. And check the cylinder walls for scoring while ya got the pan off.
Ps: On second thought I would hold off on the heaver 10-30 oil & run 5-20 with another quart of GM EOS after break in. Just my .02 cents. And check the cylinder walls for scoring while ya got the pan off.
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When I built the engine I measured everything with micrometers and had .002" clearances everywhere.
Greetings; When you say .002 on everything, you mean all the mains & rod bearings? I would like to think that you have more on the piston skirts to walls? If memory serves OE spec for a modestly cammed stocker was .00190"-.00195" for an engine that was not intended to be spun above 4500 RPM. So from a performance minded perspective you're a little tight. Keep in mine that oil's first job is to carry away heat & job 2 is too keep the parts from touching each other. I remember the first time the boss inspected the block I was cleaning, It didn't pass as he found grit in the corner above the fuel pump & front inner wall. Anyway it looks to me that your cleaning job would of failed also. You do as you please it's your stuff, but if it was mine I would do 5-20 auto store oil with a bottle of GM EOS, fresh filter run it 20 more minutes at 1500- 2000 RPM. Shut down drain oil as you have had it open again & it may still have grit in side from first round. Then reload again with the cheep 5-20 oil & another expensive bottle fo GM EOS (or the $10 bottle of ZDDP treats up to 6 qts), dump after 500 to 800 miles. All the time not buzzing above 5000 RPM for the first 5000 miles. Then come back with the VR1 10-30 as it will have enough ZDDP to keep you flat tappet cam alive for a good long time. I hope that I helped spend your money, I mean go fast, Ole' Bob.
Yes, by .002" I meant on the rods and mains. I broke it in on Castrol 10-30 with Lucas ZDDP additive, had 60psi oil pressure at start up and it gradually came down to about 40psi. I think you're right though Bob, I never double checked that the machine shop cleaned everything properly.
It's an Eagle Rod rotating assembly. I bought it as a kit, it was supposed to be balanced when I got it; but when I double checked everything nothing weighed what they said it did so I sent it out to be rebalanced.
Yeah, you might be dicked. Are you sure you weighed the assembly correctly? One would expect a big brand like Eagle to know what they're doing. Did you by chance pick up an unbalanced assembly? Did you have your block hot tanked at all, or just put it together? Sucks man, but if your cam looks fine, you're probably in the clear. Just clean the sh*t out of it. Any place you think might gather dirt, get in there. Then of course new bearings. Why didn't you use actual break in oil, like from comp?
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