Help with 81 cutlass 3.8 to BBC/SBC

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Cutlassjim

Apprentice
Aug 7, 2006
70
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ON TOPIC!

A built Ford 9 and TH400 transmission are the way to go while looking for 10's. Like 85 Brougham said adding steel to "box" where the lower control arms mount to the frame is a good idea as I hear they don't like lifting the wieght of the car (i.e. wheelies) and like to crack/ break off. Aftermarket boxed lower and upper control arms are also a must. The adjustable uppers are pricey but mint for setting pinion angle.

Obviously a new driveshaft is a must as well as a d-shaft loop.

A cowl hood will be a must as even with a stock height intake and no spacer a properly sized air filter won't fit under the stocker. A rollcage will be a must simply because of the time you will be running, damn NHRA.

For fitting fatty tires roll the lips on the rear fenders. If you want bigger you need to notch the rear frame which gives you another 1" IIRC.

The front suspension should be fine as long as you don't slam it down from a huge wheelie.

If you have the budget remember less weight = less hp needed so swing for some fiberglass body panels, lose the front sway bar, skinnies on the front, tubular front suspension, aluminum core support. Sky's the limit my friend.
 

steve 86

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 23, 2006
44
0
0
hamden ct.
about the dsm thing......sure it will go 11's in a car that weighs as much as my lunch box(i got a big lunch box :lol: ) but your comparing apples to oranges....if an eclipse weighed as much as a cutlass, it would never go that fast.............so its the whole power to weight ratio thing......like the guy said above....your gonna either need a 496 or 502 to make it easier.....or....build a sbc that runs mid 13's (very easy, cheap, and streetable) and hit it with 250 horse spray ....guaranteed to put u in the 10's......if u go this route though...look into a serious NOS system, not your run of the mill powershot with 250 hp jets......one of the keys to a good nos kit is a good plate....there are plenty of good kits out there..........
 

Cutlassjim

Apprentice
Aug 7, 2006
70
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0
Not sure of a G-bodies weight off the top of my head but when I weighed my Talon at the track with me in it, it was 3550lbs (full leather interior, A/C, power everything). Minus my 220 = 3300ish. That's one BIG lunchbox. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say motor and options depending a G-body is in the 3200-3500 range.

That looks like apples to apples my friend.

Give me a G-body with 300 WHEEL hp and 350+ lbft of torque over most of it's rpm range, good gearing and the ability to cut 1.7 60's and your looking at a mid-low 12 sec G-body.

Gee sounds kinda like a GN with some bolt on's and slicks.
 

Cutlassjim

Apprentice
Aug 7, 2006
70
0
0
Again on topic!

NOS really is a great bang for the buck. I have a really good friend with a 68'ish mustang. Built 351, high 12's on motor, 10.3's on NOS, end of story.

NOS > me. :D
 

steve 86

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 23, 2006
44
0
0
hamden ct.
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: are u serious about the weight of the talon, I would normally never believe that being that a 70 chevelle with me in it only weighs 3860, im 317, and you say the talon weighs only 300-400 less.......if thats the truth then slap me and call me Susan............I retract my statement! :oops:
 

Cutlassjim

Apprentice
Aug 7, 2006
70
0
0
Yeah their fatty little cars.

In your defense a FWD DSM wieghs in at roughly 500 lbs less. I can tell you from experience those rear diff/suspension units are HEAVY.
 
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