So im gonna replace Master first.... then if that doesn't fix it gonna go with one of the Wilwood rear brake kits but they are like $600+ so gonna try Master first
Help with Brakes
- Thread starter Shelbywh89
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Your point? They make lots of things, it doesn't mean they are right or should be used. Name a single car that has rear caliper pistons the same size as the front from the factory. There are NONE. There is a reason for that.
If you have 50/50 braking you will need to make sure you are traveling in a straight line or the back end will come around real quick
Your master cylinder is the main issue. Go with a strait bore 1.125" bore master cylinder. The system you have will work with the right master cylinder, but the caliper is over sized for the rear brakes. That being said, A LOT of people run that rear brake setup but it is mainly on drag cars, from my experience.
Instead of going with a $600 system, you can use a metric caliper with a 2.0" bore. That will get you close to the 48mm (1.89") bore size of a rear caliper of a 2000ish Blazer.
Also, rear calipers from an early 80s front wheel drive El Dorado should also bolt in. They have emergency brake provisions, but they need the E brake hooked up to adjust them properly.
Instead of going with a $600 system, you can use a metric caliper with a 2.0" bore. That will get you close to the 48mm (1.89") bore size of a rear caliper of a 2000ish Blazer.
Also, rear calipers from an early 80s front wheel drive El Dorado should also bolt in. They have emergency brake provisions, but they need the E brake hooked up to adjust them properly.
You are 100% correct, I had the EL Dorado rears but didn’t have the E brake hooked up and they leaked and i was told they wouldnt work without installing new e brake system.
Any suggestions on calipers I can use for the rear besides the Monte Carlo Fronts?
After several years trying to get a decent pedal on my 1980 Caballero, I recently talked to a guy who worked on the GM assembly line and was familiar with the metric mumbo jumbo in the early 80's. Bottom line is he told me about "quick take-up master cylinders" so I installed one. This design has a larger piston for the front calipers. Because of the larger piston, a different booster had to be used. I think I usent the master cylinder for a mid-80's Buick. Finally, I have a good pedal.
Might want to look into late model 2WD S trucks. Most parts are still out there.
Go with what you have now. Don't change it unless you need to.
If you find you need to change them, go with the Wilwood 2.0" metric caliper. PN is 120-9333. I have one of these calipers left over from when I was researching calipers. It is brand new, never used. Just took it out of the box to take pictures. Pay for the ride and its yours, you just need to purchase one more from summit, jegs, etc.
Thank you, Ill take you up on that offer, Ill buy one more and switch the rear calipers. And switch to the Wilwood MasterCylinder No: 260-8556.
What do you think? Would that fix my problems? And keep the prop valve i have.
My zip is 98444 for shipping quote
that master cylinder is notorious for being bad rite outta the box and bleeding issues.due to the angle it attaches to a booster it's pretty steep as in jacking up the back to level out the fluid level in both halves and screw the cap back down.have you thought about replacing the prop valve with a disc/disc one?i switched to four wheel disk and used one and have zero rear brake lock up issues.i also installed an adjustable one early on and it's not needed with the disc/disc combo valve.
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