Help with vacuum lines?

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slowestmonte

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 2, 2017
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So I've decided to go back to a E4ME quadrajet CCC setup on my 88' LG4 after not liking my holey HEI setup. One of my problems is that when I swapped it i took off all the old vacuum lines, but that isn't the main issue. The main issue is that a lot of them were missing already or dry rotted to the point where they had gaping holes in them (original factory vacuum lines). All of the hard parts, like the EGR valve and the charcoal canister made it through fine, but things like check valves I'm not so sure. So basically my question is this: I'm planning to just run EGR, PCV, and the charcoal canister (in terms of emissions), so is there anything else that I should be definitely running? Like is there anything missing from this setup that would hurt performance/mileage? Just FYI I have an open element air filter, but I am wondering if I should go back to stock? Trying to get optimal mileage. Also if anyone could give me an explanation to how to run the lines for the charcoal canister it would be a great help (I know there's the sticker under the hood but I think a worded explanation would be more helpful)
 

ed1948

Royal Smart Person
Aug 6, 2016
1,286
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Is you charcoal canister two or three hose. Do you have the AIR system in place?(air pump and pipes into exhaust manifolds and cat)
There is a vac line controlling the flap in the right ex manifold(heat riser?)
The complete factory air cleaner assy works well in non racing environments and allows for better cold start running during the warm up phase.
GM designed the emission system to work well as a package and little to nothing is gained by removing any devices on an otherwise stock engine.
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
3,859
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Galaxy far far away
There should be a vacuum line going from the back of the carb to the vacuum sensor which is mounted on a bracket on the rear of the intake manifold.
 

TURNA

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Jul 24, 2009
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Here is one of GM diagrams for the routing of the vacuum lines.

Good Luck!!

If you want better gas mileage put a 2 barrel carb on it and drive downhill only.

plate-spaghetti-isolated-18126220.jpg
 
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somaphox

Apprentice
Jan 16, 2015
67
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gonna need the o2 sensor if you removed it as well as the map sensor.map sensor should go to a manifold vac port,the cannister lines are fairly simple if you take out the canister diverter valve,i just run mine to the tank and one to the upper airhorn port.pcv hooks to the biggest lower throttle plate port,egr should be put to the port just to the left i think or directly under the tps sensor.rear throttle plate port beside the vac port for the brakes just hook up to the secondary vacuum break,primary break goes to the upper airhorn port that is like a T shape.if your keeping all the rest of the various systems and related sensors/check valves it gets a bit more complicated and messy otherwise just cap off the rest of the ports with vac caps.....on second thought though regarding the map sensor it may be attached to the front port of the airhorns T shaped fitting though i cant remember for sure,one would think manifold absolute pressure would be taken directly from the manifold yet i think the airhorns port would be ported vacuum but i seem to remember tracing it back to that port at some point...maybe someone else can chime in on that particular question

also if you are using the vacuum solenoid assembly(kinda looks like a tetris block with vacuum ports)the top two are egr,the port to the right goes to the egr,the one on the left goes to the port i talked about earlier,the bottom two:the one on the right is for the isc or ilc...cant remember which but i dont even use that its not nessecary so just leave them unhooked,the one of the left is for the secondary vacuum break,the port on the right would go to the rear throttle late port i said just to hook to the secondary vac break also tied into a checkvalve that the upper port on that goes to the heater box line that i believe is either pink or purple in color and the one on the left would be the one that actually goes to the vac break.

keep remembering stuff lol,thermac system on the original airclearn would go to the smaller rear port of the airhorn while the larger of the two would be for the hot hair choke if you have one.and just for completenesses sake the port to the right of the pcv valve port would go to the carbon canister valve that would then go up to the upper airhorn port as well as to the anti deisel solenoid i believe and from there would go to a vacuum reducer valve and from there...pluhh i forget
 
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Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
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Galaxy far far away
Here is one of GM diagrams for the routing of the vacuum lines.

Good Luck!!

If you want better gas mileage put a 2 barrel carb on it and drive downhill only.

plate-spaghetti-isolated-18126220.jpg

Its not really that bad as long as you know what does what. Also always look at a diagram for the year of your car. The vacuum routing was changed almost every year.
 
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