OLDS High ampere rating alternator choices

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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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Go for CS, and you won't regret that.

Like all that was done was running the brown/GEN wire to the L connector, changed it to the pulley for v belt, and made it fit to my liking.

(Make sure, to have the brackets needed though because running on one bolt like I am is not the best aha 😂😭😭😭)


9E6740AC-2679-44E8-B2E3-343F36497AFF.jpeg
 

Wageslave

Royal Smart Person
Jan 25, 2017
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Here's a nice CS144 case one

Here is a CS130 case one that seems like it would work

What mods are necessary for a CS144 case style? Is the pivot to clamp bolt distance different?
The CS144 is a bigger case than a CS130, but supposedly the same mount distance so you would just have to see if your mounts have a potential to hit the case.

The easiest thing to do is head to the local pull-a-part, and grab one of each for $25 a pop and try them out. CS130's are in pretty much everything from the 90's and the CS144's came in bigger SUV's and things set up for snow plows.
 

rfpowerdude

G-Body Guru
Jul 15, 2013
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Palm Bay, Fla
So, a CS144 case will physically bolt to the brackets, but it might hit the valve cover or head?
 

Wageslave

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Jan 25, 2017
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So, a CS144 case will physically bolt to the brackets, but it might hit the valve cover or head?
Supposedly. I would watch the radius of the curved bracket as well as it could hit the case as well.

I'm running a CS130D in mine so I don't have anything to directly compare with, but it is not an uncommon upgrade for people with a CS130 who need a little more power.
 

CopperNick

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
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Went aftermarket for both My Non-Gbody Gbody Van and my S-10. Used Tuff Stuff for the truck and Power Master for the Van. Both show around 14.5 volts at idle and are CS130 spec units. My own most personal criteria for both was that they provide a charge to the battery at idle without having to be spun above a specific rpm at start to self-excite. The issue that I was having with the GM units is that during first start the engine had to idle higher than 800 rpm for them to start throwing a charge back at the battery. At night with the lights on, pull up to a stop or light and watch the voltmeter drop into the uh-oh zone.


Nick
 
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rfpowerdude

G-Body Guru
Jul 15, 2013
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Installed the "140A" 12SI and now when the fans come on at idle, it doesn't go down to 12.0V LOL. It stays above 14V when one of them comes on and then is above 13V when the second one comes on. I measured the current for each fan while running and they are about 26A each, so not too bad. Of course, on startup, each fan is likely using 40A until it gets all the way up to speed.

Hopefully, this alternator lasts long enough until I can upgrade.

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Oct 14, 2008
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That sounds good. Keep an eye how hot that 10SI, not a 12SI, gets when fully warm under thd hood and your fans are both running. My 110 amp 10SI ran similar voltages. The case got ridiculously hot, if it is properly cooling, it may life a long life.
 

SSmooth84

Greasemonkey
Mar 12, 2019
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Sandiego,California's
I just did this upgrade go with a cs144 alternator it will bolt up just got to change the top bolt with a bigger one with a spacer and nut. if you have a "idiot light" you need this adapter in the pics. Good luck . Also if you have the stock v belt change out the pulley and you will be good .
 

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rfpowerdude

G-Body Guru
Jul 15, 2013
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Problem is that I have an Olds 455 with modified 307 bracketry. The alternator mounts on the driver side with the pivot at the top. It looks like it will be too deep and will hit the valve cover on the Olds. I would have to find a junk one and mock it up. Maybe that's what I should do. If I had a drawing of a 10SI case and a CS144 case, I could compare without a mockup...
 
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