high hp\torq. with stock frame

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That crate engine has a long list of not included but required parts, such as: electronics, wiring harness, pcm, oil pan that fits a gbody, drive by wire kit pedal kit, front accessories kit, custom exhaust, flex plate and adapter or 4l60, swap with a Trans controller.


Yes your right but most of it can be found reasonably priced in the salvage yard. My Olds 455 build would have been more expensive from a fuel injection standpoint and still required other high priced items like new headers, transmission upgrade, etc. In my case, doing a 455 right would have cost more and yielded less desirable results. Buying a low mileage engine complete is definitely the way to go.
 
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New thread title "LS engine versus Olds 455"
 
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About the rear suspension issues. I think the 4 link is a decent setup. All you really need to make a great rear setup is this.

1.Boxed lower control arms with poly bushings.
2. Adjustable uppers with rotors joints
3. Anti hop bars
4. Diff to frame sway bar
5. Polyurethane bushings on differential ears
6 . and maybe control arm mount reinforcement.
 
So, I notice some sway bar designs attach to the lower control arm and some attach to the frame. I intend to just call UMI too but thought it might be worth some discussion here?

FWIW, [and probably not much since this seems to be a never ending argument here] though prices are from 10 years ago so I am sure they've gone up some and I did put it all together myself so that saved a little coin, I've got just a hair over $6K in my custom BBO, 455 F block, balanced all forged Olds 425 C&R with 10.5/1 pistons, mildly ported Edelbrock heads just to even the inner and outer flow numbers and intake, Comp Cams cam and roller rockers running off the CCC, making 400HP/500lb.ft. getting 18-20mpg all weighing 40 lbs. less than the small block it replaced . . . so I reject the LS or 60 year old leaking TURD argument being made here! There actually are some other alternatives in between the two . . .
 
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