high hp\torq. with stock frame

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I was thinking that 500 - 600 horsepower from a NEWLY build engine or crate motor would be in that ballpark. And again, was thinking how much that it would cost ME. I don't have the time or patience at this point of my life (middle-age) to fab-up a boosted LS install and dial it all in.


That's what I used to think but you don't need a boosted LS to achieve those numbers. Previously, a big block with poor street manners was needed to get there but my L92 (6.2 aluminum block LS with VVT) with headers, tune and a cam will produce over 500hp and idle smoothly. I'm worried it will be too fast.....If it runs under 11.50 I will need a cage to run at the track. Something I am not willing to do to the car.
 
Regarding the control arm mount gussets, the rear 4 link suspension is designed to require arm flexing and bushing deflection as normal operation to prevent binding. Install boxed rear arms and poly bushings, you just transfer the twisting to the control arms mounts which aren't designed to flex and can break. Welding in reinforcing gussets is sort of like a band aid for poor suspension part choices. The stock rear arm mounts aren't that strong, and even with aftermarket arms with roto joints probably could still stand reinforcing.
 
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Regarding the control arm mount gussets, the rear 4 link suspension is designed to require arm flexing and bushing deflection as normal operation to prevent binding. Install boxed rear arms and poly bushings, you just transfer the twisting to the control arms mounts which aren't designed to flex and can break. Welding in reinforcing gussets is sort of like a band aid for poor suspension part choices. The stock rear arm mounts aren't that strong, and even with aftermarket arms with roto joints probably could still stand reinforcing.

Once again, only the upper control arms are required to flex and the roto or spherical joint nicely fit that purpose. The stock lowers cannot flex with the stock sway bar installed. I believe that UMI is the only ones who use the roto joint so I would be interested to see the tests you have done on the UMI arms to see the tensile testing you have done
 
That may work if one could find a 6.2 in a local yard. My issue with a used engine is that I'd be question the longevity of it and wouldn't want to put the time into installing a used engine. With this said, a 6.2 crate engine can cost 10k or more. If I was looking to build a track car, I would probably just build an Olds 455.
 
That may work if one could find a 6.2 in a local yard. My issue with a used engine is that I'd be question the longevity of it and wouldn't want to put the time into installing a used engine. With this said, a 6.2 crate engine can cost 10k or more. If I was looking to build a track car, I would probably just build an Olds 455.
 
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Once again, only the upper control arms are required to flex and the roto or spherical joint nicely fit that purpose. The stock lowers cannot flex with the stock sway bar installed. I believe that UMI is the only ones who use the roto joint so I would be interested to see the tests you have done on the UMI arms to see the tensile testing you have done

The lower stock arms do flex even with a stock rear sway bar, in fact the stock rear sway bars cause some binding but not on the scale that boxed lower arms and poly bushings cause. Overall the stock rear sway bars are a rather poor design and why the aftermarket axle mount rear sway bars are a huge improvement over the stock bar. Probably one of the biggest rear suspension upgrade you can perform. I have seen turbo Buicks snap the stock rear sway bars like a twig because they binded up to the point of failure during launch.

Currie and Chassisworks also make lower rear arms with roto joints.

The stronger and more rigid the rear control arms are, the more stress you induce to the mounting points on the frame. Many turbo Buicks have twisted or sheared their rear lower control arm frame mounts. These cars were designed first and foremost to be grandpa cars, the performance models were marketing afterthoughts and suffer from several design limitations because of their main intended role as grandpa cars. Overall, the 4 link suspension is a very outdated design with major flaws that are very difficult to fix without making other aspects of it worse. Fix the wheel hop you make binding worse and vice versa. The 4 link is also a poor match to a front double wishbone suspension, just lots of major flaws. G bodies are not corvettes and never will be.
 
The lower stock arms do flex even with a stock rear sway bar, in fact the stock rear sway bars cause some binding but not on the scale that boxed lower arms and poly bushings cause. Overall the stock rear sway bars are a rather poor design and why the aftermarket axle mount rear sway bars are a huge improvement over the stock bar. Probably one of the biggest rear suspension upgrade you can perform. I have seen turbo Buicks snap the stock rear sway bars like a twig because they binded up to the point of failure during launch.

Currie and Chassisworks also make lower rear arms with roto joints.

The stronger and more rigid the rear control arms are, the more stress you induce to the mounting points on the frame. Many turbo Buicks have twisted or sheared their rear lower control arm frame mounts. These cars were designed first and foremost to be grandpa cars, the performance models were marketing afterthoughts and suffer from several design limitations because of their main intended role as grandpa cars. Overall, the 4 link suspension is a very outdated design with major flaws that are very difficult to fix without making other aspects of it worse. Fix the wheel hop you make binding worse and vice versa. The 4 link is also a poor match to a front double wishbone suspension, just lots of major flaws. G bodies are not corvettes and never will be.

what are your qualifications and how much travel do think the rear suspension has..
 
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="foxtrot, post: 503153, member: 2972"With this said, a 6.2 crate engine can cost 10k or more. If I was looking to build a track car, I would probably just build an Olds 455.

To each his own but here's something to consider. You can buy a NEW LS3 with 495hp for $6,300. I don't have near that in mine but I bought a clean low mileage pull out with harness, computer and accessories. I was planning on building a nice Olds 455 but sold everything because after all the good parts needed (roller cam, good heads, quality machine work, etc) the bill would have been over $12K and I would still have a polished turd engine with 60 year old technology that would get horrible fuel mileage, leak on the garage floor, idle like crap, weigh 150lbs more than an aluminum block LS and smell bad. Just sayin.....

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per.../10002/-1?parentProductId=1127485#moreDetails
 
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To each his own but here's something to consider. You can buy a NEW LS3 with 495hp for $6,300. I don't have near that in mine but I bought a clean low mileage pull out with harness, computer and accessories. I was planning on building a nice Olds 455 but sold everything because after all the good parts needed (roller cam, good heads, quality machine work, etc) the bill would have been over $12K and I still had polished turd engine with 60 year old technology that would get horrible fuel mileage, leak on the garage floor, idle like crap, weigh 150lbs more than an aluminum block LS and smell bad. Just sayin.....

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per.../10002/-1?parentProductId=1127485#moreDetails

That crate engine has a long list of not included but required parts, such as: electronics, wiring harness, pcm, oil pan that fits a gbody, drive by wire kit pedal kit, front accessories kit, custom exhaust, flex plate and adapter or 4l60, swap with a Trans controller.
 
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