How do i pick a master cylinder
- Thread starter Matthew Goeke
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OK you guys are right, im getting my rear disc brakes real soon after i figure out exactly what i need. since i snapped one of my brake cylinder clips on the rear i dont really want to mess around with those anymore. i think i can get the parts from a junkyard or off ebay for pretty cheap with a little bit of custom fab. if you know anything about the rear brakes hit me with that info
Here is my 2 cents since I deal with brake combinations almost on a daily basis.
Corvette front calipers have less piston area than your stock, 2.5” diameter piston metric caliper (3.99 sqin versus 4.91 sqin). The number of pistons does not matter when talking clamping forces. Technically, the Corvette calipers has less clamping force than a stock gbody metric, 2.5” diameter piston caliper. The only stock, twin piston caliper that comes close to the stock metric caliper is the 1998-2002 F-body front calipers (4.91 v 4.93). With most aftermarket braking systems, the max piston area is around the 4.9 sqin, but less piston area in some situations like the corvette front caliper. Other than brake pads, increasing piston area (ie clamping force) is the best upgrade for a braking system.
They say the caliper flex is higher in the Camaro calipers versus the Corvette, but I don’t think it will be noticeable on a street driven car. You should be able to go with a 1998-2002 Camaro caliper with your Corvette rotors, but I do not know the specifics on how that can be done.
With a larger diameter rotor, you do gain some leverage, but it will be largely offset by the smaller piston area (clamping force) of the Corvette front calipers.
If you go with rear disc brakes, usually the piston area (clamping force) is half of the front brakes depending on what rear caliper you use. With half the piston area, the clamping forces is significantly less. You will most likely NOT need an adjustable valve for the rear brakes. I would not put one in unless you are having issues with your rear brakes. It is best to keep you brake system as simple as possible.
In my opinion, rear drum brakes work really well for a daily driver or drag car. The only real downfall to drum brakes is overheating and they are a little more sensitive to lock up than rear disc brakes. Drum brakes are lighter than any stock replacement rear system and are usually cheaper.
Back to the master cylinder question. The outlets on stock g-body master cylinders are ½-20 rear port for the front brakes and a larger 9/16-18 front port for the rear brakes. If you want to use 3/16” diameter line with 3/8-24 inverted flare fittings, then you can use brake line adapters in the outlets of the stock master cylinder. For the front brakes (rear port), Edelmann PN 258350. For the rear brakes (front port) Edelmann PN 258302. Please double check these part numbers for your application.
Hope this helps.
Corvette front calipers have less piston area than your stock, 2.5” diameter piston metric caliper (3.99 sqin versus 4.91 sqin). The number of pistons does not matter when talking clamping forces. Technically, the Corvette calipers has less clamping force than a stock gbody metric, 2.5” diameter piston caliper. The only stock, twin piston caliper that comes close to the stock metric caliper is the 1998-2002 F-body front calipers (4.91 v 4.93). With most aftermarket braking systems, the max piston area is around the 4.9 sqin, but less piston area in some situations like the corvette front caliper. Other than brake pads, increasing piston area (ie clamping force) is the best upgrade for a braking system.
They say the caliper flex is higher in the Camaro calipers versus the Corvette, but I don’t think it will be noticeable on a street driven car. You should be able to go with a 1998-2002 Camaro caliper with your Corvette rotors, but I do not know the specifics on how that can be done.
With a larger diameter rotor, you do gain some leverage, but it will be largely offset by the smaller piston area (clamping force) of the Corvette front calipers.
If you go with rear disc brakes, usually the piston area (clamping force) is half of the front brakes depending on what rear caliper you use. With half the piston area, the clamping forces is significantly less. You will most likely NOT need an adjustable valve for the rear brakes. I would not put one in unless you are having issues with your rear brakes. It is best to keep you brake system as simple as possible.
In my opinion, rear drum brakes work really well for a daily driver or drag car. The only real downfall to drum brakes is overheating and they are a little more sensitive to lock up than rear disc brakes. Drum brakes are lighter than any stock replacement rear system and are usually cheaper.
Back to the master cylinder question. The outlets on stock g-body master cylinders are ½-20 rear port for the front brakes and a larger 9/16-18 front port for the rear brakes. If you want to use 3/16” diameter line with 3/8-24 inverted flare fittings, then you can use brake line adapters in the outlets of the stock master cylinder. For the front brakes (rear port), Edelmann PN 258350. For the rear brakes (front port) Edelmann PN 258302. Please double check these part numbers for your application.
Hope this helps.
THIS is what i needed when i started this, im going to keep the adjustable valve just because 1. i like how all of the ports that go to the wheels are pointed straight down since im mounting it in the engine bay, and two i already have everything i need and i dont really want to go through the hassle of returning it and paying return shipping.
Line size has NOTHING to do with how much pressure the brakes getIt should be mentioned too, and hasn't been as of yet, the reason the Wilwood proportioning valve doesn't fit your application, is because of its correct intended usage. That is, to adjust brake bias going to the rear wheels mainly for 4 wheel disc brake applications.
Note that at the end of the paragraph? 4 WHEEL DISC BRAKE APPLICATIONS.
Disc brakes use less fluid than drum brakes, so the brake line supply size is always smaller than what is needed for drums. This is why your 3/16" port size Wilwood PV will not fit with your factory 1/4" rear brake fitting. At least not without the fancy/expensive adapter fittings as you've already found out. A properly designed and thought out 4 wheel disc braking system will use 3/16" lines front and rear.
I know you are eager to dive right into this and start ordering and buying parts, but I strongly encourage you to slow down, do some research, think it through and make a clear, consice and well thought out plan before running off half cocked.
Sorry if I come across as being a bit harsh, but you need to take into account that it's not just your safety and well being that you're potentially risking when modifying the braking characteristics of your car (quite possibly for the worse, from some of the things I've read on your posts) - it's everyone else on the road that you're putting in jeopardy as well. It could be me, other members, or our families that all travel the same roads as you. Are you willing to accept that risk?
Food for thought...
PLEASE, heed the advice of the more knowledgeable members on here, and do your homework.
PLEASE, Do not jack around with your braking system if you're not totally clear with what you're doing.
Ok, I've said my piece, I'm getting off my soap box now.
.
Peace out.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brakes/612528-brake-line-size-why.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brakes/637958-anyone-try-3-16-a.html
Thirdgen is just a forum like ours so you are just exchanging the opinions on here for the ones on there, I am sorry you have to look so hard to justify your reasoning.
But on there they have actual mechanical engineers that have studied fluid transfer, on here we have people that assume what it would do.
I have a hard time understanding your reasoning for coming on this site, and asking for information, when you've already made up your mind on what you're going to do, and you're just going to plow ahead and do it, regardless of what people say.
Again I've asked what would be a good master cylinder not if I should stick with the oem prop valve, two I always look into what people tell me because a lot of times people base what they say off of opinions and personal experience. I NEVER ASKED FOR OPINIONS ON WHAT PROPORTION VALVE I SHOULD USE.
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