Well said Gbody vet i agree!! I picked up a 30k mile targetmaster 350 for cheap a while back... IMO i would build a 350, gonna cost you the same pretty much and you end up with more power... But if you need to rebuild the 305 to get it running and save up for a 350. I would only send the block to get machined if you have a ridge at the top of the cylinder wall.. If not hone it throw some new rings and bearings, gaskets and seal it back up. Send the heads out to get a valve job and seals and call it a day either way it would be a learning experience :lol: I rebuilt the 4.7 in my WJ jeep for under 1k and that included everything new except for the rods and pistons. i reused everything else and threw in some H.O. cams as well. Did all the work myself, cheapest quote i found on a rebuilt long block was 2k.. :| It just passed emissions testing today :lol: Just gotta keep my foot off the go pedal...
how much does it cost to do a basic rebuild?
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pontiacgp said:
Well, im no engine builder but to me they looked like they were on there last legs, lots of little flat grey "streaks" i guess would be the word for it. Didnt look very good to me. The journals didnt look too bad but they definitely need to be polished.
85GPLef41 said:
This is exactly what i was thinking of doing. And i bet its hard trying not to floor the jeep all the time lol. A buddy of mine has an 01' durango with the 4.7 and does the same thing all the time haha.
There is nothing "hillbilly" or "hackjob" with using original pistons and honing a block. Why replace perfectly good parts ... if you are just needing a BASIC REBUILD :?:DoubleV said:RITTER said:😱 WoW, I would hate to have to take something to shop around you.DoubleV said:
Are you doing the assembly :?: If you can get away with using the original pistons and keeping it a standard bore, that will help. If you do the assembly, you can do I basic "overhaul" for less than a grand
I stated COMPLETE rebuild DONE RIGHT, not hillbilly hackjob. A FULL ON rebuild costs thousands and I'm factoring in assembly, so when you get your long block back, it's ready to bolt in and go with just bolting on your accessories and whatnot.
If you don't beleive me, go to any shop of choice and get prices on ALL the machine work for EVERYTHING ( overbore and honing with torque plate, block cleaning, cam bearings, block decking, align honing, ALL headwork etc ) and you'll see whether it's a Chevy or whatever, it's going to cost you pretty much the same for that stuff. Much of the Chubby parts are cheaper than most, but not by the huge amounts many think. In the end, you get a long block back fully assembled and at least 3k lighter in your wallet. That's one of the reasons why doing a full on rebuild on a 305 ( or Olds 307 ) is such a waste.
I had all my block work done for less than $300 :idea: My 041 heads ported/polish with surfacing, opening the valve sizes up to 2.02"/1.6" and drilled for screw in studs with full assembly for $600, all done by a very reputable and respected Porting Service race track guy :idea: I live here in race country, plenty of reputable and very good engine shops here.
Like I said, it sucks that your local shops are so expensive :| I know that every area is different
my rebuild is running all of $2700-3000. I've currently sunk $1400-1500 into it and this was for the machining (bore,hone,deck,magnaflux,cam bearings,plugs, etc), all new parts for the short block, and the assembly of the short block..This was all done by Chastain's in Jonesboro,Ga...very reputable company. the only thing i'm re-using is the crank and i had this polised for $50. Heads will run me 500, intake and carb will be 400, front accessories will run another 400, then headers, and then a transmission. So a total of just under $4K for a complete motor/transmission swap. I don't want to even think about paint...geesh!
i figured i'd splurge on all new performance parts so i wouldn't have to do this again for a while...but you could easily save yourself a good $1k or more by re-using old parts if they're still good.
i figured i'd splurge on all new performance parts so i wouldn't have to do this again for a while...but you could easily save yourself a good $1k or more by re-using old parts if they're still good.
But "dream on mcss" is asking what a basic rebuild will cost :idea: He didn't ask about building a performance SBC :|
he's 16 years old, I think we should help him with what he wants to do, not what someone else wants him to do. It's a good opportunity to learn about an engine and if he just grabs another engine he's may not be learning what he wants to learn.....just saying
pontiacgp said:
Yeah thanks man, its definitely a learning experience. This is my second engine ive torn down in my 2 years of automotive knowledge lol, the first one was a supercharged 3800 v6 that i did in auto. It was one of our like 55 motors that we have that were donated by various manufacturers to our shop. The damn thing was like brand new lol! But we never got to run it because we dont have an ECM for that kinda motor. Anyways what my intentions for this motor are to just get it running and then brag to all of my friends that i successfully "rebuilt" a motor, lol jk. But i do want to get it running though, and what i had in mind was a federal mogul re-ring kit, it comes with almost everything i need besides a few minor things.
What d'y'all think?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-2056024M-000/
dream on mcss said:
I think that's what I used on mine when we rebuilt it. I'm not for sure though.
you know "dream on" im in the same shoes as you! im 19, not that much experience in engine building and I just wanted something to do with what I love. So I did, I found a 350 short block for 300 bucks and just took my time and found a group of half decent parts and in total im in for about 2000. I have a thread on my 350 build if you wanna check out what parts i used and such. This forum will become your best friend if you decide to build haha. Good luck!
Try going to NAPARTS.COM, their prices are usually cheaper than Summit's and you can choose to upgrade parts in the kit if you want. I order parts from there for almost all the engines I build for people, 1. Because they're cheaper and 2. Because they are in Iowa and I live in Nebraska, so I get the parts the next day. Don't know where you live but being that it would be cheaper to get parts from them it might be a good thing for you.
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