I'm no expert but me thinks it's facing the wrong way...
How to swap different types of rears into G-bodies
- Thread starter RobM
- Start date
Dont forget to check out our swap section. Lots of options that are easy on the budget. From a simple 12 bolt to a Dana 70. Most come with control arms.
I was given a set of your lower bars. What is the difference between these and the Hotchkis version?
The other company charges a lot more $$$$. We have 4 or 5 versions of our lower arms and of course we can custom build anything you need. We also have the best tech team and lifetime on our bushings. We now offer powder coating any about any color you can think of.
So many pros and cons to each choice. What seems like a big factor here is price. Arguing over junkyard swap ins with 20 modifications verse a brand new drop in. This is a poor debate. Some have $25 per week to through at their project and 20 hours of time. Some need this to be bolt in and understand new and engineered solutions cost money.
I have very expensive option. A brand new drop in from Moser Engineering. Sure I can't come into these debates on what a cheap deal I got but this is brand new with a warranty and efficiency and brand cost me some extra.
One thing not covered is the popular choice of Ford 9". I do believe at the big power drag car only stage. It gets the nod due to it's almost worm gear like drive engagement. It's not the extra 0.2" over an 8.8 that make it stronger, it's the low placement of the pinion gear that make it stronger. Another reason is the pocket bearing, which no other rear has.
The problem I see with that is it takes up alot of real estate. Ok for a spool since it's small but for a Trac Loc, clutches or Tru Trac. They are puny compared to a 12 bolt, 8.8 or Dana 60. Real factor on a street car and the same reason off road guys do not like them.
You may have checked of the option box for posi but some of us know your thing is small.
I have very expensive option. A brand new drop in from Moser Engineering. Sure I can't come into these debates on what a cheap deal I got but this is brand new with a warranty and efficiency and brand cost me some extra.
One thing not covered is the popular choice of Ford 9". I do believe at the big power drag car only stage. It gets the nod due to it's almost worm gear like drive engagement. It's not the extra 0.2" over an 8.8 that make it stronger, it's the low placement of the pinion gear that make it stronger. Another reason is the pocket bearing, which no other rear has.
The problem I see with that is it takes up alot of real estate. Ok for a spool since it's small but for a Trac Loc, clutches or Tru Trac. They are puny compared to a 12 bolt, 8.8 or Dana 60. Real factor on a street car and the same reason off road guys do not like them.
You may have checked of the option box for posi but some of us know your thing is small.
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This was a good read from the beginning, thought I share...back in the day ~1999, my working place had it's own network classified ads which came up on the screen looking like a DOS screen. G-body drum to drum Currie 9" posi 3.90 w racing axles $600. That was a steal even for back then. I was sporting the stock 7.5 3.73s and thought 3.90s would be a bit much for a daily street car with no OD. I passed on it and perhaps 10 years later I met this person who put the ad up, he told me "Oh yeah I sold it cheap, if I knew you were into g-bodies I would've given it to you!!!"
Probably in the mid 80s I was given a 68-72 Chevelle 12-bolt w 2.56 peg leg for a measely $60. Never did anything with it except for purchasing the control arm kit to install it.
I don't even remember when I acquired the 442 8.5 rearend but that quickly got bolted up under the '87 Monte stock LG4 got into a wreck, parked it and never messed with that car since. Just to let you know, I wasn't driving. Some lady plowed into it in the parking lot!!!
Knowing I had a control arm kit for a 68-72 Chevelle 12-bolt, stumbled across a 12-bolt on CL that I couldn't pass up. Drum to drum welded axles, Moroso brute strength, 4.56 gears, Moser racing axles, c-clip eliminators and an aluminum girdle cover zero miles $700. The spring perch still needs to be relocated should I decide to put it into one of my current rides but I was also thinking this rear might be more suited with a T56 with a .50 OD so that's another project in itself.
As you can see, maybe 2 of these may have survived behind some serious horsepower but the other 2 would definitely need some upgrade$.
Probably in the mid 80s I was given a 68-72 Chevelle 12-bolt w 2.56 peg leg for a measely $60. Never did anything with it except for purchasing the control arm kit to install it.
I don't even remember when I acquired the 442 8.5 rearend but that quickly got bolted up under the '87 Monte stock LG4 got into a wreck, parked it and never messed with that car since. Just to let you know, I wasn't driving. Some lady plowed into it in the parking lot!!!
Knowing I had a control arm kit for a 68-72 Chevelle 12-bolt, stumbled across a 12-bolt on CL that I couldn't pass up. Drum to drum welded axles, Moroso brute strength, 4.56 gears, Moser racing axles, c-clip eliminators and an aluminum girdle cover zero miles $700. The spring perch still needs to be relocated should I decide to put it into one of my current rides but I was also thinking this rear might be more suited with a T56 with a .50 OD so that's another project in itself.
As you can see, maybe 2 of these may have survived behind some serious horsepower but the other 2 would definitely need some upgrade$.
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