how's this sound 7.5" drag rear-$300?

[Minion1186]

It'll hold up to the power my motors making, and I can go with a bigger slick at the track and still not worry. I pressure washed it with superclean and there are no visible cracks in the housing, the ring and pinion are toast and the mini spool is gone. I bought a set of OEM 3.73's for it and an eaton posi that better fit my 350 olds and th350.The axles are in good shape as well, no splines are wiped off the axles and no cracks either. I plan to put a girdle on it and a new coat of paint to finish it off.
Here's how much I've spent so far.
-Complete rear with "no-hop" bars and brakes-$150
-OEM gear set/eaton posi-$250
-Master overhaul kit-$140
I'm just under $600 and I could keep it that way but i plan on getting a girdle for it but even with that it will still be cheaper than a stock 8.5 or 9 inch and is just about as strong as a stock 8.5 as well.
Since it is also the same housing thats in my cutlass already the brakes, rear suspension (sans upper control arms) and brake lines will be swapped over.

Here's some pics before it was torn apart.

 

[sbbr358]

8.5 works good for me foot breaking on motor

 

[86 regal]

heres how my 7.5 worked out for me, i was very lucky!!

 

[86 regal]

thats a sexy car! don't act like your not impressed!

 

[86 regal]

just so you know, i gave my 7.5" away to a friend for scrap metal cuz thats about all they are worth, not trying to be an *ss but it's not my 1st rodeo

 

[Minion1186]

Here's an update on the rear. I finally got it finished and put together with everything torqued. The ring gear pattern seems to make an acceptable pattern according to the yukon book. The eaton posi is actually a Gov-Lock posi rather than a limited slip upon further research of it. I did run into a problem with this project, I seemed to miscount the splines on the moser axles it came with and found out they are 26 spline rather than 28 so new axles are on the way and i should have the rear in within two weeks. Also the yukon rebuild kit i purchased was perfect for this project except for one of the pinion bearings, the kit includes one that is too big for the pumpkin so i simply ran the part number on the old bearing and had the correct one installed and cost a mere $15. I'm actually up to about $800 so far into this rear and I could've gotten an 8.5 10 bolt for that price but then i would have to cut my driveshaft for it. If i didnt have to get the new axles it would've been within a very reasonable budget build for how strong it is but i think i made out ok as is.
Complete rear-$150
OEM 3.73's/Eaton differential-$250
Master overhaul kit-$140
Moser axles-$245
Correct Rear Pinion Bearing-$15

 

[monte olrac]

You'll soon find out about that gernade lock errr I mean gov-lock unit and why 95% of folks hate them, they do make Awsome shrapnel though!

 

[CHRIS.O]

You should be fine with it as long as you arent spending everyday at the track getting traction and riding wheelies. I had one in a 461 olds car, before that it was in a 12.40 malibu that hooked up and lifted a tire and before that a monte that hooked up well. However an 8.5 is better but we use what we got right?

 

[Minion1186]

I never really heard much bad about the gov-locks but hopefully it'll hold up to my motor. I'm really interested in what I'll run in the quarter with my cutlass this year so it'll be at the track once or twice this summer hopefully. I hope it holds up to burnouts.

 

[pontiacgp]

here's an after photo of a gov-loc

"One problem with the gov lock is that if you spin up the rpm too quickly, the lockup mechanism may break. The locking mechanism engages when there is about 100 rpm difference between the two wheels. If you nail the throttle hard and go from 0 to 1000+ wheel rpm quickly it engages with a bang puts a lot of sudden strain on the locking mechanism. Its especially bad on dry pavement."