Its me again.

[69hurstolds]

As far as changing out the ignition keyswitch tumbler, it's luckily the only key operated thing on your car that has one key that goes to nothing else, so you can get a new key/tumbler assembly and swap them out- and it's not that hard as long as you have a lock plate compressor and a steering wheel puller. Then it's easy peasy.

GM p/n for the key switch (comes with 2 keys) is p/n 19356477. Again, you can cheap out and go with the box store brand, up to you.

Amazon sells them for about 26 bucks plus applicable tax. List price is $45 and change.

Hutch does a great job on how to disassemble a steering column to remove the lock cylinder. Watch it completely if you want to understand how this all works, but about up to the 16:30 mark is him getting to and taking out the lock cylinder.

 

[Bri guy]

Sounds like i need to remove the switch first and then bring it to the part store to make sure i get the right one. As far as the issues go, the tumbler has nothing to do with it? Replacing the switch would solve the issue?

 

[Bri guy]

Thank you for taking the time to post these videos.

 

[69hurstolds]

As far as the electrical issues go, no, the tumbler itself has nothing to do with them directly. The fact that's it's worn out may be causing issues with the mechanical side of the switch. Obviously, you won't know until you get in there. So if it's sloppy and loosey goosey in there the rod may not be in the correct position anymore and be placing the actual electrical part of the switch on top of the column to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. So wriggling the key tumbler or whacking the column may be "fixing" the mechanical issues, at least temporarily. The ignition switch on the column is adjustable so that's got to be considered when you replace the switch. They're fairly cheap so replacing it ensures the contact areas are fresh and new.

TBH, I think if you replace your ignition switch and key tumbler, you'll clear up those "mystery" run ons and other ill sh*t concerning the mechanical portion of starting your car and the need for whacking the steering column to cut it off.

As far as the battery and alternator go, if they're both ok and the wiring is good, then I'd zero in on that starter assembly.

 

[Bri guy]

Starter is brand new before last winter. Mini torque starter. 9510 i think from summit. I also put in Brand new wiring and fuses.

 

[69hurstolds]

What's the amp draw during cranking? Just because it was new last year doesn't mean it's not a bad unit or installed too tight. How's the gear mesh? Just asking is all because something isn't right, and we all know that much.

 

[Bri guy]

The highest number i seen on the fluke was 21amp. I had it on the cable going to the starter and watched it as i turned the car on....what do you mean by gear mesh? The starter fit perfect, wasnt to close. Think it was about 1/4" away from the fly wheel. And teeth were pretty much centered as well. No shims were needed.

 

[TURNA]

the ignition switches are adjustable, so if it is sloppy You may be able to correct it

 

[Bri guy]

This the switch?

 

[Bri guy]

There it is😐 looks like a pain to take out