I couldn't believe I didn't have a line twist off on my 1970 Cutlass S, especially considering it is not a rust free car and nearly 50 years old. Of course that was just the front pair, I still need to do the back pair. Always lube and heat to remove and start the flare fitting by hand to help avoid cross threading.
From your lips to God's ears..............AMEN. Yes getting the flare to sit squarely in the bore is the key and then you can gain a few threads just by hand. As I did with that last one.
But I swear the person who invented drum brakes was a sick sick person. I finally used a pair of small c clamps to hole the brake shoe IN PLACE so I could get the pins to go thru the cap holes and lock the springs in place even using the proper tool. Man I was getting so frustrated trying to hold the shoes, keep pressure on the pin, grab the tool put it on the spring cap and................the c clamp was one of my better ideas.............
I already went over and broke the other fitting loose on the other wheel so HALLELUJAH............
I couldn't believe I didn't have a line twist off on my 1970 Cutlass S, especially considering it is not a rust free car and nearly 50 years old. Of course that was just the front pair, I still need to do the back pair. Always lube and heat to remove and start the flare fitting by hand to help avoid cross threading.
I always loved an A body Cutlass S................just couldn't find one in decent shape. My first Muscle Car was a 1969 442. I sure miss that ride...😢
Bench seat, 4 speed, dark green, gold stripes, gold or saddle interior...........IT WAS THE BOMB...........(that's an old person's saying)
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