COVID-19 just bit my resto project! After searching for lower door skins, I found and ordered a set from Dixie Restoration. Unfortunately, Dixie notified me that they can't fill the order completely due to their supplier in Michigan closing for the duration of the pandemic.
Lower door skin panels
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This topic was in a thread a few weeks ago. Now you’ve given alot more detail. The inner part of the door shell is not difficult to replace. Mostly just small pieces is all thats needed. Check with other name brand companies, like Goodmark or Sherman for lower skins.
Doug, yes, you are right regarding repairs to lower door shell. My plan is to take my time rebuilding the inner shell.
I also got back in touch with Dixie Restoration to order the passenger lower door skin that they have on hand. Hopefully, it should be arriving in Hawaii in 7-10 days.
I also got back in touch with Dixie Restoration to order the passenger lower door skin that they have on hand. Hopefully, it should be arriving in Hawaii in 7-10 days.
Things are beginning to look up, the lower door panel from Dixie Restoration arrived on Saturday morning in good shape. The panel has a MADE IN CANADA sticker on it along with the name Global Manufacturing. I did a quick test fit and dimensions look great. In the replacement panel, the top-to-bottom measurement is about 11"...lines up an inch above the body line--about where the pinstripe is located. As you can see, I decided to cut the old panel roughly 5" from the bottom so my stitch welding line is low and somewhat hidden as the profile dips inward and away.
I'm going to use the top edge from the left over metal (above) to form patches for the rust damage at the bottom of my door shell. My plan is to make use of the indented shape--above the body line-- to fabricate my two 18" patches. Because I don't have access to a metal brake, I am going to "build" a home-made one.
I'm going to use the top edge from the left over metal (above) to form patches for the rust damage at the bottom of my door shell. My plan is to make use of the indented shape--above the body line-- to fabricate my two 18" patches. Because I don't have access to a metal brake, I am going to "build" a home-made one.
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Geezer, thanks for the info. Those look good but I figure with the 2 repair patches being only 2-3" x 18-19" each I don't really need a replacement lower door shell. I will however contact Tamraz to collect details on cost and shipping options.
Are you doing an on car repair or are you pulling the door to weld, by the way there are a lot of "Geezers" here so 565bbchevy works a little better. 😉
LOL...my apologies! Actually, I'm one in that category...73 😊
Currently, the door is on the car but I am going to remove it to do welding of the shell patches and skin. Because my car is outside, I need to fashion some kind of barrier to keep culprits--2- and 4-legged out of the cab. While I have the door removed, I am going to switch from manual crank to power windows. I'm getting too old to reach across the cab to either open or close the windows.
The more immediate task is to build a metal brake. I have a design in mind...just need to go shopping for the parts.
Currently, the door is on the car but I am going to remove it to do welding of the shell patches and skin. Because my car is outside, I need to fashion some kind of barrier to keep culprits--2- and 4-legged out of the cab. While I have the door removed, I am going to switch from manual crank to power windows. I'm getting too old to reach across the cab to either open or close the windows.
The more immediate task is to build a metal brake. I have a design in mind...just need to go shopping for the parts.
Update: Well, I finished making the sheet metal brake and pressed on with fabrication of lower edges for the door shell.
Although the metal brake had some flex, it still enabled me to fabricate the two 18" door shell edges. One saving grace was the lower drain holes were not too badly rusted and served as good attachment and reference points for the new door edges.
as you can see, my MIG welding is not the best and, therefore, requires a considerable amount of grinding and "metal dressing" to get it level. The next step is to dry fit and trim the door skin. Then, I need to figure out how to create a slight indentation/body line about 1" from the bottom which matches up with the lines on the rear quarter and front fender.
Finally, yesterday, upon hearing the news that the State of Michigan is going to be reopening soon, I placed another order with Dixie Restoration Depot for the driver's side lower door skin.
Although the metal brake had some flex, it still enabled me to fabricate the two 18" door shell edges. One saving grace was the lower drain holes were not too badly rusted and served as good attachment and reference points for the new door edges.
as you can see, my MIG welding is not the best and, therefore, requires a considerable amount of grinding and "metal dressing" to get it level. The next step is to dry fit and trim the door skin. Then, I need to figure out how to create a slight indentation/body line about 1" from the bottom which matches up with the lines on the rear quarter and front fender.
Finally, yesterday, upon hearing the news that the State of Michigan is going to be reopening soon, I placed another order with Dixie Restoration Depot for the driver's side lower door skin.
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