LS pre oiling

[Built6spdMCSS]

Agree, and unplug the 8 pin on each coil harness. I don’t do this for oiling, but it’s exactly as I do for compression testing.

No mess and no inadvertent jolts 😉

If you pull the fuse that controls them, it also controls the injectors also. 😉

 

[64nailhead]

If you pull the fuse that controls them, it also controls the injectors also. 😉

Not with a Holley when the ignition is wired to the master disconnect.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Yea, the aftermarket stuff might be a little different, I'm using factory GM stuff.

 

[doood]

I used a garden sprayer with brass fittings (nipples and barbs, hose clamps) to put 5 quarts of oil at 20psig into the galley port of my 5.3L crate motor. I pulled the pressure release valve RTV-ed a tire valve stem in it's place to pressurize with a bicycle pump (had a gage). Not necessary to prime junkyard motor AFAIK, but I took precaution with the crate motor not to void warranty.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BPDC5LN/?tag=gbody-20

 

[Rt Jam]

I also fill the oil pump and spin it around a couple times.

The oil pump on an LS is driven by the crankshaft.


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This is a similar topic to prefilling filters. If you want instant pressure. Priming is necessary. It also takes that moment of waiting for pressure away.
You can also just wing it but it's not the advice I would give, especially on a new build.

Do not prime with starter. There are many components not lubricated during cranking like cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, small end of connecting rod and most of the valve train.
These components rely on crank splash or oil thrown from the crank.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

The oil pump on an LS is driven by the crankshaft.

Yes it is....

 

[Streetbu]

The oil pump on an LS is driven by the crankshaft.


=======================================================================================================================


This is a similar topic to prefilling filters. If you want instant pressure. Priming is necessary. It also takes that moment of waiting for pressure away.
You can also just wing it but it's not the advice I would give, especially on a new build.

Do not prime with starter. There are many components not lubricated during cranking like cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, small end of connecting rod and most of the valve train.
These components rely on crank splash or oil thrown from the crank.

So how exactly are you lubricating the cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, small end of connecting rod, and most of the valvetrain by priming? Curious minds want to know.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

So how exactly are you lubricating the cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, small end of connecting rod, and most of the valvetrain by priming? Curious minds want to know.

I fill the whole engine up with astroglide before first starting. It works. 🙂

 

[Rt Jam]

So how exactly are you lubricating the cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, small end of connecting rod, and most of the valvetrain by priming? Curious minds want to know.

There are no pressurized oil galleries to these few parts of the engine. The bottom of pistons and cylinder walls are lubed by oil slinging off the crank. The only problem is there is no oil slinging at cranking speed.

Realistically these parts can live a long time with no lube. Especially when there is no combustion stroke or high speed. I just don't think it's good for the engine to crank.

 

[Northernregal]

There are no pressurized oil galleries to these few parts of the engine. The bottom of pistons and cylinder walls are lubed by oil slinging off the crank. The only problem is there is no oil slinging at cranking speed.

Realistically these parts can live a long time with no lube. Especially when there is no combustion stroke or high speed. I just don't think it's good for the engine to crank.

What if I turned it over by hand, on the stand? Like.... Really fast....

Would that still be bad? Asking for a friend....