LS to 4l80e flexplate and TC installation help

Status
Not open for further replies.
Looking at your picture in post 26, measure from transmission side of one of the bolt hole pads (through the hole) to the back of the block surface that is on the same plane that the transmission mates to. You might have to rotate the crank to get a bolt hole to line up. Usually I use the oil pan rail.

Then put a straight edge across the face of the transmission and measure to the converter bolt pad (of course the converter has to installed in the transmission fully).

clearance = converter measurement - flexplate measurement.


Have installed the converter onto the trans yet? Did you read through the instructions on Circle D’s website?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas82GP

This describes how to measure very well. The confusing part of this for how it pertains to you is the 6 bolt vs 3 bolt converter. He’s installing a 6 pad converter made for a 6 bolt flexplate. Everything 6 bolt is for using a stock 4l80 6 bolt flexplate that the flexplate has a built in crank spacer. That allows for a shorter pilot on the converter. Most aftermarket converters use a 3 bolt pattern and are designed for a standard dished 3 bolt flexplate - the converter pilot will be longer to accommodate for both the flexplate dish and lack of spacer on the flexplate.

You haven’t posted a pic of your converter showing the pilot length- I’m guessing it’s longer than the converter that Jake has mounted in the transmission in the video. If you have a short pilot on your converter, then the pilot spacer you received with the flexplate will be needed.

If I’ve made this more confusing, then send me a PM.
 
  • Like
Reactions: johnnunez29
If you put it together, you get the 3/16" from the flexplate to the converter, the measurement from the flexplate to the back of the block is irrelevant.

Why over complicate it?

It's literally that simple.
 
  • Like
Reactions: johnnunez29
If you put it together, you get the 3/16" from the flexplate to the converter, the measurement from the flexplate to the back of the block is irrelevant.

Why over complicate it?

It's literally that simple.
It isn’t irrelevant if he wants to put it in the car and not have to adjust it after it’s in the car. Measuring beforehand will eliminate all of the working on your back with a drop light/ flash light to make sure this correct.

If he has a lift and can leave the car on it for days waiting for parts to show up, then fine , do it in the car.
 

This describes how to measure very well. The confusing part of this for how it pertains to you is the 6 bolt vs 3 bolt converter. He’s installing a 6 pad converter made for a 6 bolt flexplate. Everything 6 bolt is for using a stock 4l80 6 bolt flexplate that the flexplate has a built in crank spacer. That allows for a shorter pilot on the converter. Most aftermarket converters use a 3 bolt pattern and are designed for a standard dished 3 bolt flexplate - the converter pilot will be longer to accommodate for both the flexplate dish and lack of spacer on the flexplate.

You haven’t posted a pic of your converter showing the pilot length- I’m guessing it’s longer than the converter that Jake has mounted in the transmission in the video. If you have a short pilot on your converter, then the pilot spacer you received with the flexplate will be needed.

If I’ve made this more confusing, then send me a PM.
Perfect this is exactly what I was trying to
Figure out. I’ll get the TC on the trans seated all the way and get the measurement from face of TC to the bolt face of trans. Thank you
 
If you put it together, you get the 3/16" from the flexplate to the converter, the measurement from the flexplate to the back of the block is irrelevant.

Why over complicate it?

It's literally that simple.
Both are fresh out the shop and I have no lift. Working on my driveway . I’d like to get this mated together correctly and dropped into the car and NOT have any headaches. Or Atleast minimize my headaches. I do appreciate all the help fellas . Even the frustration lol
 

He describes the pilot differences and specifically what I was describing above towards the end of the video. I stole that info from Jake haha.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas82GP

He describes the pilot differences and specifically what I was describing above towards the end of the video. I stole that info from Jake haha.
PERFECT! thank you. Any suggestions on ATF this is going to be a TT car. Hoping to be between 800-1k trans is built.
 
Dex3, Dex6, Tractor hydraulic, whatever.

I used to use Dex3, but as it's gotten harder to find I've swapped to Dex6. Dex6 is a little 'slippier' than Dex3 which will make your converter a little (very little) looser - which is good.

Not knowing you at all and your experience, I'll mention to not be scared of 'too much stall' or 'too much slip'. You have a programmable lockup converter transmission setup - you can tune all of it. The only noticeable effect I have from a 4000 stall converter is when pulling away from a stop either going up a hill or pulling a trailer. The converter will not grab from a stop at 12-1500rpm's. And in those situations I just described it will be at 2000 rpm's. But that is only in 1st gear from a stop. Once the car is moving 5-8mph it acts like a stock converter if I want it too. If you intend to race your car, then a tight converter is extremely dangerous to your motor if your tune is not spot on.

The easy solution that I employ to taking off in the conditions that make it slip is to not 'p*ssy foot' with the throttle from a stop. My wife hates it, but I love it haha.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas82GP
Dex3, Dex6, Tractor hydraulic, whatever.

I used to use Dex3, but as it's gotten harder to find I've swapped to Dex6. Dex6 is a little 'slippier' than Dex3 which will make your converter a little (very little) looser - which is good.

Not knowing you at all and your experience, I'll mention to not be scared of 'too much stall' or 'too much slip'. You have a programmable lockup converter transmission setup - you can tune all of it. The only noticeable effect I have from a 4000 stall converter is when pulling away from a stop either going up a hill or pulling a trailer. The converter will not grab from a stop at 12-1500rpm's. And in those situations I just described it will be at 2000 rpm's. But that is only in 1st gear from a stop. Once the car is moving 5-8mph it acts like a stock converter if I want it too. If you intend to race your car, then a tight converter is extremely dangerous to your motor if your tune is not spot on.

The easy solution that I employ to taking off in the conditions that make it slip is to not 'p*ssy foot' with the throttle from a stop. My wife hates it, but I love it haha.
You da man! So any dex 6 from the auto parts will do. Thanks for the advice. I wasn’t expecting any responses I’m in Florida and couldn’t sleep. Lol. Thanks again
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor