LSx Swap Parts Database

For those wanting/needing to use Camaro Style front accessories because of hood clearance issues, or to make room for some turbos, etc. I have put together a list of part numbers, etc. Will maybe even through a few picts in to show what the part looks like next to the number, so that it is easier to figure out, if you are not used to doing this type of stuff...

Alternator:
rear bracket PN 12556915 (verified)
front bracket PN 12563327 (verified)
alternator bolts (need 2) PN 11516366
alternator bolt (need 1) PN 11516360
alternator PN

IMG_20111111_204115.jpg

small is for the rear, bigger is the front (obviously...lol), the idler pulley goes in the top left hole of the bigger bracket in the pic

IMG_20111111_175809.jpg

the alternator all cleaned up and painted

Idler:
Belt Idler Pulley (1) PN 12564401
bolt (if it doesn't come with it and i think it needs a spacer or something?) PN 11516356
IMG_20111111_154206.jpg

cleaned and painted

Balancer:
Balancer PN 12553118
Washer PN 12600525
Bolt PN 12557840

ARP balancer bolt and washer 234-2503 Summit Racing
 
Tensioner:
Tensioner (shows that it comes with pulley and bracket) PN 12560344
Bolts (need 2) PN 11515768

Water :
Pump PN 89018053
Pulley PN 12552059
Bolts (apparently you need 6) PN 12551926

IMG_20111026_112422.jpg

has tensioner installed on it
 
Power Steering:
Main Bracket PN 12561584
IMG_20111124_175342.jpg


Front Brace PN 12555693 (in between the pump and pulley

Pulley PN 12559885 (verified)
Pump Bolts (need 2) PN 14078896
Pump Bolts (need 2) PN 11515758
 
i had to do a ton of research and looking stuff up, to get the list, I have seen one for corvette, but for those, like me who dont like that style and need the room up top

if you are using an iron truck block, you will need to drill and tap the hole for the front alternator bracket and alternator to bolt onto the block (the aluminum block should have this already)...

I used the following, which came with the right bit and tap (for stock bolts)...
IMG_20111111_154256.jpg

IMG_20111111_154244.jpg


the top hole is the one that was done
IMG_20111111_154228.jpg

IMG_20111111_154234.jpg


and the alt mocked up before cleaning and painting it
IMG_20111111_134700.jpg

IMG_20111111_134709.jpg

IMG_20111111_134649.jpg


the rear bracket hole is already there and works perfect, with the alt
 
Thanks for all the part numbers thats awesome!!! I actually have a line on an LS1 from a 99? Trans Am I was hoping to pull the trigger on. What do you guys think of using a 700r4 behind one?
 
-83MONTESS- said:
Thanks for all the part numbers thats awesome!!! I actually have a line on an LS1 from a 99? Trans Am I was hoping to pull the trigger on. What do you guys think of using a 700r4 behind one?
if built right, you will be fine, they are great transmissions, I have a built b&m, wont be able to use it for long though (only supports up to 700hp), change all the plastic stuff to metal and change the clutch pack (put the kit in that has more clutches in 3rd/4th, and one piece sun shell? (or what ever its called), tci constant pressure valve body... etc. I love them if built up right, some people have bad luck with them...

a better option (if you need something stronger) would be a 4l80e (can support up to 1200hp, if built right), you can get a kit to make it a manual shift, if you dont want the computer stuff... all depends on how much hp/tq you will end up with and what you are building the car for...
 
I second that - the 700 will be fine if it is fresh and built strong. I am fully expecting my new one to take 500 hp/ 500 tq. I have an auxiliary trans cooler so that helps.

The problem with the 4L80E is threefold: 1. It is a massively large unit that physically will not fit in the tunnel of some cars. 2. Related to #1 is -it is very heavy and takes power to spin it. 3. Requires a computer to operate normally.
 
4L80s will fit in G bodies. My buddy that's building a TT 6.0 Monte has a 6L80 in his and that trans is huge.

It may take more power to spin but a stock 80 will handle more then a pretty decently built 200, 700, 60e etc. I wish I went with an 80 after all the money I spent on a converter, getting the trans built, and rebuilt. You have to use a different driveshaft with a 700/60e anyways.

They have standalone trans controller kits out too.
 
I went ahead and got a 4l60e from a local trans builder..after i ran the numbers it is a 2004 4l65e, according to a guy i talked to about a t56 said that 4l65 built right it should hold up just fine.. My ls1 came out of a auto trans equipped car and that should work just fine. My trans supposedly has some performance upgrades after the rebuild.
 

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