LT1 in 78 Malibu wiring

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pagrunt

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Sep 14, 2014
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Well let me ask you this. Does your harness terminal and battery terminal go to the same big lug?
In factory form yes, but I'm working on moving all those wires off the stater to a junction block that'll be on the inner fender. So with this plan I'll just have the battery cable & starter wire on the starter with a second positive cable powering the junction block.
 
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Baker7888

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Dec 3, 2021
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In factory form yes, but I'm working on moving all those wires off the stater to a junction block that'll be on the inner fender. So with this plan I'll just have the battery cable & starter wire on the starter with a second positive cable powering the junction block.
Sounds like a nice setup.

Thanks for the help. Im not gonna attempt a startup till exhaust is done but this gets me one step closer. Rear axle should be back home early next week
 
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Baker7888

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Dec 3, 2021
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Oh one last thing.

For the grounds I was gonna go

Battery ground to frame (small lead to body)

Engine ground to body

Is this sufficient? I dont remember seeing an engine ground to frame
 

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
9,127
15,257
113
Elderton, Pa
Oh one last thing.

For the grounds I was gonna go

Battery ground to frame (small lead to body)

Engine ground to body

Is this sufficient? I dont remember seeing an engine ground to frame
Never had grounds on the frame but there is never too many grounds.
 

78Delta88

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May 23, 2022
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There was a flat weave uninsulated copper from back of block to fire wall (chassis ground) that usually got torn off when pulling engine.

Also from trans to frame.

Below is good one to read >>>

On the CS130/144 you need resistor, (85 ohm 5 watt) in series with the exciter/igniter wire.

Speedway has it but on backorder. Pic below... On Amazon and others too, but read small print and will say to add resistor, which means you have to cut, which seems kind of stupid...

On the alternator if yours goes the full 225 amp you will need bigger wire from Battery Positive to the main stud. See chart below.

Attached wire diagram for LT1 I pulled to answer your other post, haven't had much time last couple of weeks...

On the starter, the large lug connects to the main Battery Cable (0 guage) 300 amp about the diameter of average pinkie finger.

The ring connector with the smaller wires is a "junction". Those wire supply other stuff. Leave that off and your other items won't work along with getting back feeds. For now just attach to large lug with main bat cable.

The single wire with the smaller ring connector goes to the silver small lug, that comes from the key switch. That is the one that energizes the starter solenoid.

The other large lug with short wire all ready attached to the starter motor leave alone as is.
 

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Baker7888

G-Body Guru
Dec 3, 2021
665
115
43
Maine
There was a flat weave uninsulated copper from back of block to fire wall (chassis ground) that usually got torn off when pulling engine.

Also from trans to frame.

Below is good one to read >>>

On the CS130/144 you need resistor, (85 ohm 5 watt) in series with the exciter/igniter wire.

Speedway has it but on backorder. Pic below... On Amazon and others too, but read small print and will say to add resistor, which means you have to cut, which seems kind of stupid...

On the alternator if yours goes the full 225 amp you will need bigger wire from Battery Positive to the main stud. See chart below.

Attached wire diagram for LT1 I pulled to answer your other post, haven't had much time last couple of weeks...

On the starter, the large lug connects to the main Battery Cable (0 guage) 300 amp about the diameter of average pinkie finger.

The ring connector with the smaller wires is a "junction". Those wire supply other stuff. Leave that off and you other items won't work along with getting back feeds. For now just attach to large lug with main bat cable.

The single wire with the smaller ring connector goes to the silver small lug, that comes from the key switch. That is the one that energizes the starter solenoid.

The other large lug with short wire all ready attached to the starter motor leave alone as is.
Thank you for this. Regarding the alternator wiring, it is my understanding that a resistor is NOT needed due to the fact that I have a "no charge" warning light on my cluster. If it had a volt meter (which it does not) then it would need a resistor. This is coming from tech support over at National Quick Start which sells the adapter pigtails. Is this true or false?
 

78Delta88

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May 23, 2022
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Thank you for this. Regarding the alternator wiring, it is my understanding that a resistor is NOT needed due to the fact that I have a "no charge" warning light on my cluster. If it had a volt meter (which it does not) then it would need a resistor. This is coming from tech support over at National Quick Start which sells the adapter pigtails. Is this true or false?
You have the ALT light on dash, so the bulb acts as the resistor. If they are saying that's ok then you should be fine.

What I got from alternator manufacturer by reading through, is that resistor is needed or it will damage the internal regulator. On the SI series you can hook up full 12V, but on the CS series you can't, from what I've read.

If they are saying it's not needed, then you are probably ok, I would just clarify..., due to cost of alternator.
 
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78Delta88

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May 23, 2022
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This issue might be a good one for a sticky.

Past few years I answered several of similar post for Hot Rodders Forum and the Olds Forum, as did others. Seems to be common issue.
 
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