There was a flat weave uninsulated copper from back of block to fire wall (chassis ground) that usually got torn off when pulling engine.
Also from trans to frame.
Below is good one to read >>>
Is the alternator on your hot rod up to delivering the voltage required to run your accessories? We show you how to properly execute an alternator upgrade.
www.chevyhardcore.com
On the CS130/144 you need resistor, (85 ohm 5 watt) in series with the exciter/igniter wire.
Speedway has it but on backorder. Pic below... On Amazon and others too, but read small print and will say to add resistor, which means you have to cut, which seems kind of stupid...
On the alternator if yours goes the full 225 amp you will need bigger wire from Battery Positive to the main stud. See chart below.
Attached wire diagram for LT1 I pulled to answer your other post, haven't had much time last couple of weeks...
On the starter, the large lug connects to the main Battery Cable (0 guage) 300 amp about the diameter of average pinkie finger.
The ring connector with the smaller wires is a "junction". Those wire supply other stuff. Leave that off and you other items won't work along with getting back feeds. For now just attach to large lug with main bat cable.
The single wire with the smaller ring connector goes to the silver small lug, that comes from the key switch. That is the one that energizes the starter solenoid.
The other large lug with short wire all ready attached to the starter motor leave alone as is.
