LY6 and 6L90e swap for my Cutlass. Any and All information is appreciated.

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As for running the 700R4 I've heard that, with the DBC throttle body, you can use the truck gas pedal cable (by truck I am assuming they are referring to the c/k pickup trucks, I can look into this for you if you aren't already aware) without any work and there are companies that sell brackets to hook up the TV cable, although it seems like a lot of people make their own.

Here's some points that may help you sort it out.

* The 700R4 will work but then you need a new cable operated throttle body. In my opinion 700R4 is not strong enough in stock form and compared to the newer transmissions isn't the best. You're stuck dealing with governor shift points unlike a newer computer controlled transmission where you can change them with HP tuners or Tuner Cat software.
* The new 6 speed transmissions will not fit a G body without major cut and weld modifications to your tunnel. This has been well documented.
* A 4L60e will bolt up and fit a G body but they do not seem hold up with reasonable power and abuse. Again, well documented.
* 4L80e in stock form is plenty strong for even a mildly built LS engine. Many agree that they are good up to 600 hp stock.
* You can buy used 2WD 4L80e's from Express Vans for as low as $400. You can use a factory shifter with the 4L60 and 4L80.
* If you are convinced that cable throttle body is the way to go, you already have a cable throttle body, intake and computer set up for cable then you can buy the TV bracket here http://www.tvmadeez.com/ls1_cam/.
* To keep the VVT (highly recommended) you cannot regress back to a cable throttle body. An E38 ECM or newer is required for VVT.
* You should have an E38 ECM in your truck. It is a good ECM to modify and retain VVT. It is not set up for cable throttle body. All you need is a T42 transmission controller to run a 4 speed 4L60 or 4L80.
* To run a 4L80e with E38 and T42 with your VVT engine you can use a 2008 Express Van base tune.
* VVT is often deleted by those that are afraid of it. It offers a huge performance benefit and increases fuel mileage.
* VVT engines do not have a unique oil pan. The timing chain cover has a cam phaser in it which makes it different. The long water pump and accessory drive system is required for VVT engines (2007 and newer Camaro, Corvette, Truck and SUV). You already have all this on your engine.
* Your truck engine with complete accessories will bolt right in your G body with the Hooker system.
 
Calvin I came across the vvt aftermarket oil pan. It's brphotrod. That's where I saw it. Good luck
 
Here's some points that may help you sort it out.

* The 700R4 will work but then you need a new cable operated throttle body. In my opinion 700R4 is not strong enough in stock form and compared to the newer transmissions isn't the best. You're stuck dealing with governor shift points unlike a newer computer controlled transmission where you can change them with HP tuners or Tuner Cat software.
* The new 6 speed transmissions will not fit a G body without major cut and weld modifications to your tunnel. This has been well documented.
* A 4L60e will bolt up and fit a G body but they do not seem hold up with reasonable power and abuse. Again, well documented.
* 4L80e in stock form is plenty strong for even a mildly built LS engine. Many agree that they are good up to 600 hp stock.
* You can buy used 2WD 4L80e's from Express Vans for as low as $400. You can use a factory shifter with the 4L60 and 4L80.
* If you are convinced that cable throttle body is the way to go, you already have a cable throttle body, intake and computer set up for cable then you can buy the TV bracket here http://www.tvmadeez.com/ls1_cam/.
* To keep the VVT (highly recommended) you cannot regress back to a cable throttle body. An E38 ECM or newer is required for VVT.
* You should have an E38 ECM in your truck. It is a good ECM to modify and retain VVT. It is not set up for cable throttle body. All you need is a T42 transmission controller to run a 4 speed 4L60 or 4L80.
* To run a 4L80e with E38 and T42 with your VVT engine you can use a 2008 Express Van base tune.
* VVT is often deleted by those that are afraid of it. It offers a huge performance benefit and increases fuel mileage.
* VVT engines do not have a unique oil pan. The timing chain cover has a cam phaser in it which makes it different. The long water pump and accessory drive system is required for VVT engines (2007 and newer Camaro, Corvette, Truck and SUV). You already have all this on your engine.
* Your truck engine with complete accessories will bolt right in your G body with the Hooker system.


Thanks for the info Anubis. I am going to be sticking with the 6l90e. I'm pretty comfortable with modifying the tunnel and I will be making my own trans crossmember as well. I was thinking about getting the hooker/holley kit but just can't justify spending that much money. From the looks of it I will just be fabbing up my own stuff since this is a budget build. I might give some cheap swap plates a try with the clamshells but worst case I make my own mounts since I feel capable/comfortable doing this. As for the pan I plan on modifying the factory truck pan. After doing some research it seems like it is only the depth of the sump that causes an issue. It appears that cutting 3" off the depth solves this issue and still allows the pan to retain 5L of oil. the pickup also has to be shortened the same amount. I most likely won't be taking off quite 3" since the 6l90e pan hands down somewhat low as well so I will most likely match the two. If I find ground clearance is still short I will probably make a shid plate and hope for the best.
 
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Just an update to anyone following. I finished my LY6/6l90e swap in my '85. Everything went relatively smooth considering. Ended up raising the tunnel about 2 inches, modifying the factory shifter to accommodate the 6l90e shift cable, and making a trans crossmember. Other than that everything else was equivalent to doing any other swap.
 
what did you use for motor mounts? what did you do about the one coil on the ac box? thanks
 
Congrats! Looks like Ottawa is going to be crawling with LS-swaps this Summer.
 
Love the 6L90 in my CTS-V. If and when I do an LS swap in my malibu wagon I thought about running the 6l90 or 4l80e.
 
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what did you use for motor mounts? what did you do about the one coil on the ac box? thanks

I used ICB billet mounts with the factory clam shells. They allow the truck pan to sit just above the crossmember. Not a whole lot of room but there is enough to be comfortable with it. I was unable to clear the truck throttle body (GenIV engine) and alternator under the hood. Ended up getting a scrapped Monte hood, cut it up a bit (by a bit I mean a lot) just to have something on temporarily. I'm not sure what to do as a solution, either buy an LS3 intake and belt system or find another Cutlass hood and cut it up nicely so the engine cover sticks out a bit. As for the coil pack I dont have clearence issues with that. I did bang up the AC box since I put the power plant in the car without separating the engine and trans so it was a bit awkward. I will get around to fixing that but now that the engine is in I have more than enough clearance there. The Gen III coil packs may be a bit bulkier so not sure if that would have the same fitment.

Let me know if you have any other questions.


Congrats! Looks like Ottawa is going to be crawling with LS-swaps this Summer.

Thanks, it's definitely a growing trend. I'm tempted to ditch the 383 stroker in my C10 but will probably keep that as it sits for a while.


Love the 6L90 in my CTS-V. If and when I do an LS swap in my malibu wagon I thought about running the 6l90 or 4l80e.

I definitely recommend the 6L transmissions. I'm really enjoying this one so far. I have had it on the road for a week now.


Did you end up using the F-body headers for the swap? If so, how did you end up connecting the headers to the exhaust?

I did end up using F-body headers. They were very easy to fit with minor modifications. I couldn't justify spending almost twice as much on the G-body swap headers. What I did the the passenger side was cut the tubes where they meet the flange about 3/32", (maybe 1/8" by the time it was said and done) on the bottom portion then bent the tube in towards where the engine would be. Once in place with enough clearance I just welded them back up and they fit like they were designed for the car. The driver side I just had to cut the collector tube on an angle then weld it back together so that it lined up with the frame. After that I just Cut the old exhaust to the proper length to match the collectors up and bolted it in exactly how it was before.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Sweet, Im jealous lol. Looks like the mounts you used sat the engine higher than some of the other mounts do. That solved the oil pan but created hood clearance issues. What ever as long as your enjoying it all that matters. Thanks for posting what you did and how it came out for the rest of us getting ready to do to compare different set ups.
 
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