more speed

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85t5mcss

Master Mechanic
Apr 24, 2006
343
2
0
Indy, IN
OK, so a swap is out of the question?

Tune-Up and ditch all unnecessary weight. Carpet, door panels, A/C, heater, back seat, emissions, and so on. Make sure u r getting plenty of air through that filter, too.

Not the best way to make them quicker, but it's an option.
 

illregal82

Master Mechanic
Jul 4, 2006
262
0
0
MINNEAPOLIS
you say a v8 would be consume too much i dont know if my 3.8 sucks *ss or what but it sucks the gas up worse then my buddies ss monte with a 350 in town i have to floor it to get the freeway
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
33
0
Tampa Bay Area
My 350 is actually better on gas around town than my 3.8 was. You just need the proper selection of gearing and carb to get there. Run a well setup Quadrajet and you'll be happy with the results. Remember that with the larger, more aggresively geared drivetrain, you won't need near as much throttle to get it moving. Plus, the Q-jet has the same size primaries as the 2 barrel on the 3.8, allowing for: decent part throttle acceleration and mixture velocity, great low RPM vacuum signal and therefore better fuel economy. Plus, the air valve secondaries allow the carb to open only enough for the actual airflow requirements of the engine-provided the secondary air doors are properly tensioned. Mine is set up for good driveability and fuel economy instead of high RPM HP.

Here's my combo if you're interested: .030 over '77 350, 9.5:1 compression, World Products SR Torquer Heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, Edelbrock Performer intake ( scored for $15 at the U pull it), 1979 Quadrajet carb out of my neighbor's garbage ( no joke!), $10 HEI with Accel coil and cap, Edelbrock headers and Y pipe for G code MC SS, Mild Crane cam with :270/276 duration, 440/454 lift and ground on a 114 degree LSA. The old dyno sim on my computer says it makes around 340hp and 400 ft lbs of torque which seems likely, but may not be accurate. It idles smoothly at 750 RPM and has alot of low end torque. Oh, and for a trans I have a TH 200 4R and that runs back to a 3.23 rear driving 245 50 16's.
 

ONE EYE

Greasemonkey
Aug 24, 2006
133
0
0
in front of the computer...
i would get long tube headers, 3.73 gear from a monte SS, four speed auto from anything but a g body (th200r4 has same gearing as th350) 700r4 has 3.06 first gear, and i would also get a torque converter from a moni van they have a slight stall (1900rpm) and also an intake from a '85-'87 mini van they were 4 bbl intakes, then i would go to GM and get a mild cam (or ebay, comp, or any other cam place you can afford) and MAYBE even a set of VORTEC V6 heads...make sure you have everything matching i.e. everything starts at 1500rpm or wherever you want it to. and you will see a good improvement from all this.
also if you study, you can even find out the head gasket thickness and then see if theres a thinner one to 'bump' compression a little.

i have spent a LOT of time wanting to build a v6, ever since i seen the pikes peak one here at the ealership 6-7 years ago with 435HP!!!! sounded MEAN.

i also like building cars out of the junkyard lol.
 

mrapii

Greasemonkey
Jan 5, 2006
198
0
0
Waipahu, HI
Actually I think the TH200R4 has better gearing than a TH7004Rfor that V6. The 700 has a lower first gear but then a big jump to second while the 200 has much closer gear spacing. Just use a lower rear axle gear and the V6 motor will have a much easier time keeping in the power curve. Both have similar OD ratios.
 

ONE EYE

Greasemonkey
Aug 24, 2006
133
0
0
in front of the computer...
yea, but out of the hole is the important part for him. around town light to light, it will get going quicker. and all the other gears are pretty ,uch the same as a 200r when he is moving. you can go wither way, but if it was me i would go the 700. keep the close gearing for the v8's and racing.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
20,413
113
Kitchener, Ontario
It makes no sense to switch to a 700 for 3 reasons.....the main one that mrapii pointed out the gear ratio between 1 and 2 in the 700 kills the aceleration .....the 700 is a heavier transmission....and to install a 700 he'll need to change the tanny crossmember and a driveshaft which adds to the cost...
 

1986 Cutlass Supreme

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 16, 2006
21
0
0
New Hampshire
85t5mcss said:
OK, so a swap is out of the question?

Tune-Up and ditch all unnecessary weight. Carpet, door panels, A/C, heater, back seat, emissions, and so on. Make sure u r getting plenty of air through that filter, too.

Not the best way to make them quicker, but it's an option.

Don't forget to leave the driver seat.Put only a half of tank of gas in the car.lolThis will help with the cost of the V8.lol
 

ONE EYE

Greasemonkey
Aug 24, 2006
133
0
0
in front of the computer...
gp, what i was getting at is the big problem for a v6 is getting out of the hole, once your rolling its easier to accelerate.the more gear you have at the start will help. it will drop off in second but he will be at a higher speed than with a th350 or 2004r. so it wont make as much of a difference, since he wont be racing it much first to second shift isnt that important. and its easy to get the parts he needs, since theres an abundance of 700's in the wreckers, and they are all the same unless you need an F body transmission. the tailstock has the provision for a torque arm on them. and if his car is 83 or newer it will have the frame bracket for a 200/700 already, then all he has to do is move his original crossmember back. the biggest problem will be a driveshaft, but he can get one made for under 300. i had one built for my 4 gear el camino with nitrous, and it was $412. canadian. thicker wall 3" end to end, and came balanced.
 
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