(Mostly) Successful maiden voyage!

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Buford T. JuSStice

Master Mechanic
Aug 16, 2010
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In fact, all of the LED's I have in there currently all run on the same ground, and I did notice that the blinkers work a little on the slow side even when it has full charge on the battery... meaning that there's not enough resistance to cause the flasher to function. If I put the ground side of the bulb with all the others (just splice it in before it goes to the connector would be the easiest way) I could splice in the ground for the idiot light bulb, and just run the power wire to it from the alternator. All I'd need to know is how much resistance it would need.
 

Buford T. JuSStice

Master Mechanic
Aug 16, 2010
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I don't think the resistor is all that necessary; the brown just needs to see 12v to excite the regulator. Now, a diode, on the other hand, is usually necessary for trunk mounted battery applications to prevent run on when the disconnect is shut off.
Yeah, and my battery isn't trunk mounted so that's not an issue.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
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Kitchener, Ontario
it's a 470K ohm 1/2 watt resistor

"As you can see the #1 terminal expects to have a switched 12V lead that runs through the dash charge warning indicator. This “Key On” voltage excites the alternator to start charging and the simple light bulb provides the correct amount of resistance the engineers wanted on this circuit. At rest this terminal in the alternator is at ground and the light bulb burns. Once the engine is started and the alternator begins to produce current the light bulb goes off as there is now a voltage on both sides of the filament and no ground. I guess I can see the logic of the resistor in terms of exciting the alternator but the problem is it is hot all the time as if you left the key on and is likely causing in a draw all the time. "
 

pagrunt

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Sep 14, 2014
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More I read this I wonder why I never had any issues when converting to factory gauges over 25 years ago. I even still have the wire in the cluster plug. Ran the same alternator until I ripped everything apart.
 

Buford T. JuSStice

Master Mechanic
Aug 16, 2010
341
192
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More I read this I wonder why I never had any issues when converting to factory gauges over 25 years ago. I even still have the wire in the cluster plug. Ran the same alternator until I ripped everything apart.
May have been an older alternator that didn't need to have a bulb and resistance to excite the regulator. What I've got is the kind that comes with the Chevrolet Performance serpentine pulley set up, which is a newer style alternator with a 4 pin connector rather than a simple 2 pin.
 

Buford T. JuSStice

Master Mechanic
Aug 16, 2010
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Hence, why I just throw switched 12 at the brown wire.... ;)
Just FYI, none of the wires I've got to work with are brown lol. The ones that come off the alternator's connector are all white. The big one goes from the regulator and meets up with the wire that goes back to the battery, two of them (technically) have no purpose, and the one next to the big one is for the idiot light.
 

Buford T. JuSStice

Master Mechanic
Aug 16, 2010
341
192
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This is the kit I bought for the serpentine system.

According to the parts list, the Alternator for this application is a 105 Amp reman unit. According to the Q&A section of Summit Racing for the alternator found here it does in fact require an exciter wire to be used. So this should be the first thing I try!
 
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Buford T. JuSStice

Master Mechanic
Aug 16, 2010
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Finally had a day off from work, and I wired in a simple 194 bulb socket to the exciter on the alternator and then to the electric choke wire since that's always on whenever there's ignition power. Same wire I used to get power to the tachometer. For now it's just a temporary set up, I'm going to do something a little less fuddy once I get the time. But for now, that worked, and the alternator is charging!

But now we're back to the overheating issue, but I'm not as worried about it this time because I'm fairly confident it's due to the vacuum advance not being tuned yet. I traveled less than 5 miles and the temp gradually climbed to 240 and that's when I pulled over and set it in a parking lot to cool down because I was afraid it would continue going up. I was going to take it to get the alignment done, so that didn't happen this time. I didn't adjust the vacuum advance yet, because the car was still hot when I got it home, about 245 or so. Right now it's at bottomed out at it's factory position, which gives it about 2-5 degrees of vacuum advance meaning that it's likely running retarded which means it runs hot. It did not however, detonate or ping at all, and it did not run on at all once I cut power to the ignition.

I figure by this chart, I should start off with 6 turns clockwise and see where I stand. If I continue running hot, I'll give it one turn each time until it starts behaving a little better.

Some good news however: The TV cable seems to be adjusted well... it felt like it was shifting at the right times, and the shifts were nice and smooth. Other than the anxiety from the overheating, the car was fun to drive, and that's the most important thing of all!
 

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