motor boggs when i hit the gas hard

[Bdoza88]

Hi I have a 84 cutlass supreme with a rebuilt 355 sbc. When I try to do a burnout or just accelerate fast the car boggs but doesn't turn off. So since than I have put a new holley carb, distributor, cap, rotor, ignition coil, starter
(plus wires), alternator(plus wires) and fuel and air filters and got timing checked about 3 times and nothing changed. I have a rebuilt th350 with about 1000 miles on it. my buddy told me it could be my kickdown cable so changed that and nothing changed. Someone else is telling me it could be the torque converter. Any help would be great.
Thanx Barry

 

[pontiacgp]

if it's not a timing issue with a bog on a quadrajet is an easy fix cause the secondarily air valve is opening too soon. The spring for the air valve just needed adjustment. You sure are dedicated though, I have never seen anyone throw so much into a car trying to get rid of a bog

 

[Bdoza88]

Ill try that this week and post the results when done.I appreciate the help. and yea the only reason I bought all those parts was because im building another sbc and needed those parts anyways so just through them on the other one

 

[Fox80]

Quadrajet? you said you put on a new Holley carb, if so is it vacuum secondary or mechanical? I would assume its a vacuum secondary most guys shy away from mechanical secondary carbs, if so it could be as simple as the opening of the secondaries to early or to late

 

[tetomas]

Also with a holley check the accelerator pump, some are adjustable for stroke and shot volume. Too much stroke= too much fuel which will cause a bog if you try to get after it too quick. The same goes with too much volume. The stroke is usually just an adjustment, the volume on the other hand requires a pump diaphragm change. IMHO put the Q-jet back on, adjust the secondary air valve spring and let er run. Just my 2 cents.

 

[thrasher]

Please answer as many of the following questions as you can to get a fairly educated answer.

1. What size is the Holley and is it a double pumper or a vacuum secondary model?
2. What distributor did you install? Does it have a curve kit in it?
3. What is your initial advance setting?
3a. Do you know how much total advance the engine has?
4. Is your vacuum advance unit on the distributor hooked up?
4a. Is it hooked up to a manifold or ported vacuum source?
5. Does the engine have an afremarket cam? If not what is it, list the cam number or the lift and duration spec's.
6. Do you know the compression ratio?
7. What heads are you using?
8. What gears are in the rear end?
9. What torque converter are you using?

 

[Bdoza88]

I really don't know much about the motor but I will find out as much of that info and get back to you guys by tomorrow. Thanx

 

[Bdoza88]

so far this is what I have found out from my friend that helps me with the car and got the motor for me.
670 vacuum secondary carb
vacuum advance unit is hooked up on distributor
compression is 10:5
3:73 gears in posi rear end
will try n find out some info on heads tomorrow when the sun comes out

 

[Rocketeer]

What's the cam specs and is it running on a stock converter? 10.5 is A LOT of compression? What heads are on it, cast or aluminum?

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Sounds like a bad lockup solenoid in your transmission. However this is something the computer controls, but since you removed the computer there is nothing to control it now. So now after repairing the solenoid, you will have to install a switch to manually lockup and unlock your torque converter when you shift the trans. Would have been better keeping the factory computer, Qjet, and dist so it all runs automatically. Though in this case that would require a CCC system swap from a Monte Carlo which is easy (Olds and Chevy used very different CCC setups as well as Qjet setups).