muncie and hurst shifter downshifting troubles

[mebe007]

I believe so, not the small th 350 output

 

[mebe007]

Ok so I think I found part of the issue.

Could Def be clutch release. Initial issue seems clutch fork related. Pivot isn't stying in the pocket so that's probably why I had to keep readjusting freeplay. Got it back in position and adjusted freeplay and throw out sings. Looks like fork was putting uneven pressure on bearing. So I quite possibly have a serious disk and pressure plate problems. Need to pull it all out soon. I'll probably replace it all with a new clutch bearing and pp while I'm at it as it will already be apart. Might as well surface the flywheel too. Now to find a replacement on clutch fork

 

[pontiacgp]

if you get the flywheel surfaced make sure they re-balance it,

 

[mebe007]

What's the sign of needing surfacing?

 

[Bonnewagon]

So much has to be right on, it's frustrating. I've had a pressure plate where, when bolted down, the fingers sat uneven, making the clutch pedal pulsate. I've had the spring clip in the fork be cockeyed so the fork would never seat correctly on the stud. Had the spring clip break too. Also seen flywheels surfaced wrong so the whole rotating assembly was cockeyed, making the pedal pulsate and shifting difficult. And of course you need to have the correct throwout bearing/stud/fork combination for your particular application or the geometry will be wrong. Besides verifying all the parts being correct, what I've also settled upon is a combination of return springs. One connects between the clutch fork to the Z-bar,(factory holes are provided), so the rod is always held securely between them. Another connects the clutch fork to the frame, to assure positive retraction. Finally I have one up under the dash so the clutch pedal is always returned to the full "up" position, never resting on the "Z" bar linkage. Probably overkill, but it works.

 

[mebe007]

Well I found an oem fork and ordered a new clutch. Now I have to get it all ready to come out so I can have flywheel surfaced

 

[Bonnewagon]

"What's the sign of needing surfacing?" Usually the surface is burnt, cracked, "heat checks" they call it. Sometimes a rivet or bit of foreign material gouges a groove not unlike a grooved brake rotor. A bad pulsing pedal may even be from a badly overheated/warped flywheel. Then even if all looks good or after it's been cut, it should be checked for run out with a dial indicator. It should be perfectly flat. I've had flywheels cut by real machinists and yet the bastards weren't flat- wobbled like crazy. On the other hand, I've changed just a disc alone because both the flywheel and pressure plate looked great. I just used an abrasive floppy disc to freshen up the surfaces and they worked like new. Good luck finding just a disc anymore- they want you to buy the whole shebang.

 

[mebe007]

I went ahead and bought a whole kit because I understand now due to the fork the clutch has been way off for a long time. I went with an act 6 puck clutch so it should Def hold the power. One cool thing is act told me when I wear it out send it back and they re puck it for $36

Hope I get it straight. I need it to get painted before carlilse next year

 

[Bonnewagon]

I hate buying clutches anymore. I've had so many bad ones it's like a crapshoot. I had an 11" Firebird diaphram PP that was so off, it wacked the throwout bearing so hard it broke in two. I had a great RAM 3500lb 3 finger unit that outlasted two cars! But it wore out my linkages from the huge pedal effort to actuate it. Right now I have an 11" bent finger diaphram, whose brand escapes me right now, that is smooth as silk and has almost no pedal effort at all. It is a pleasure to drive.

 

[mebe007]

I hope this clutch works out. All I know is I just got my oem clutch fork in and what a difference between it and the re pop. Honestly after having both the repop feels like junk