My fairly complete 3.8 to SBC 350 swap parts list!

Sep 1, 2006
6,687
0
Tampa Bay Area
Okay, since I noticed this question being asked a number of times, I figured I would write as comprehensive a list as I could to help those wishing to do this popular swap.
Engine
Exhaust system
3 in Catalytic Converter ( optional)
Exhaust manifolds and downpipe or headers
Engine block mounts with bolts
"Clamshell" mounts that bolt to frame
Through bolts for engine mounts to join the clamshell to the block mounts
Transmission, either TH2004R, TH700 R4 ( both require the TH2004R crossmember), or a TH 350.
Driveshaft shortening , yoke and balance if TH700R4 is used
Converter lockup kit if computer is removed
Torque converter
Transmission cooler lines ( originals may also fit, unknown to me)
Plug wires for Monte SS
Distributor-1974-1980 Chevy V8 if computer is not used
Power steering pump from Chevy powered car
Power steering hose with correct steering box fitting ( usually metric O ring style)
Complete set of power steering brackets, including the bracket on the head
Power steering return hose, must be PS hose and NOT fuel line
Alternator with smaller case
Alternator spacer and bolt for pivot location at the bottom
A/C compressor bracket
A/C compressor bracket to manifold brace
A/C compressor bracket that bolts to the compressor
A/C compressor bolt spacer
Bolts that attach the compressor to it's brackets(2), Bolts that attach compressor bracket on compressor to the compressor brackets on the engine, bolt the compressor rotates on when adjusting belt tension (R4 radial compressor is discussed here, early axial compressor is different)
A/C pressure hose ( use hose and compressor brackets for a G code ( HO 305) Camaro if using a cold air induction system)
Carburetor( Quadrajet gives best hood clearance)
Fan blade
Fan Clutch
Fan shroud
Radiator- 3 row V8 unit minimum
Radiator to core support cushions, 4 needed as they are also used on the fan shroud to clamp the radiator in place
MATCHED SET of crank and water pump pulleys
Upper and lower radiator hoses
heater hoses( originals can be trimmed to fit)
Long water pump
Thermostat housing
Fuel line from tank to pump
Fuel pump
Wiring harness from same year 305 G body( optional)
Starter
Battery cable to block retaining loop for positive wire
Plug wire looms
Fuel line from pump to carb
Fuel filter
Air filter assembly-offset base if open element is used with factory HEI distributor
Spark plugs
Fuel hose, about 3 feet trim to fit as needed
V8 front springs ( optional, but a really good idea)
Big sway bars ( optional)
Front suspension rebuild kit( optional, but good idea on a car as old as most G bodies)
Body mount kit( optional, but if you pull the body off the frame to change the fuel line, the originals will disintegrate and require replacement)


Well, that's all I can think of. If I have forgotten anything, feel free to post my omissions.
 

85t5mcss

Master Mechanic
Apr 24, 2006
343
0
Indy, IN
Alternator to water pump bracket. Small triangular shaped piese as well as the alternator to intake manifold bracket.
IIRC a new throttle cable will be needed and possibly the detent bracket depending on what trans is in currently vs. new trans going in.
P/S pump and bracket from any 76-85 GM SBC car or truck. Best to stick with same year as your gear box to match up fittings on both ends. Just to simplify things.
Engine=complete engine intake to oil pan and crank/timing cover to flywheel.
Flexplate for year of engine/trans combo being used. 200-4r will require the 153 tooth.
Starter needs matched to engine block and flywheel design.
Brakes r a good idea to upgrade as well. Going faster will often necessitate better stopping. But for just cruising, stock will be OK.
Slight mods to power brake hose.
Oil pressure switch can be reused since they will both be 1/8 NPT, but Coolant temp may need replaced with correct size thread. U cannot use a bushing on these since the probe needs submersed.
AIR pump and brackets if maintaining 100% emissions.
 
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Reactions: 1 user

85 Cutlass Brougham

Geezer
Thread starter
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
0
Tampa Bay Area
I thought I had missed a few things! The throttle cable can be reused, I did it with my swap and have plenty of cable left to spare.
 

1985RegalLimited

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 30, 2007
7
0
Chicago
Is this for the all original?

lol, all I had to do was drop the entire motor in (already had everything on it) drive shadt, motor/ transmission mount relocations.

All that habbajabba is to much!
 

85t5mcss

Master Mechanic
Apr 24, 2006
343
0
Indy, IN
1985RegalLimited said:
Is this for the all original?
All that habbajabba is to much!
Just depends on where u live, I guess. But I'm with u on too much. i don't need A/C or emissions. :D
 

85 Cutlass Brougham

Geezer
Thread starter
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
0
Tampa Bay Area
It can be used either to make it original or not, if someone does not want certain things they will be able to not use them. As for me, I own all the proper smog and computer pieces but do not use them ( I have a non computer HEI and a non computer 1980 Quadrajet that have both been modified). I do want my A/C, P/S, and am adding cruise control as soon as I find a complete setup in a 305 G body that works with my year of car. I am also using a factory air filter housing, but not the restrictive one from a G body. Rather I have the dual snorkel setup from a mid 80's Camaro Z-28 with the HO 305 and run it as part of my soon to be completed cold air package.I used the taller lid off a Monte Carlo instead of the flat lid from the Camaro for better air flow due to the taller filter. The list is simply there as a guide for everyone who asks how to do this swap and if you know anything about cars you can determine that which is extraneous to your needs and that which is not.
 
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Reactions: 1 user

85 Cutlass Brougham

Geezer
Thread starter
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
0
Tampa Bay Area
I thought I would add a few suggestions for those who are doing this for the first time.

Take this time to rebuild the front suspension, the brakes, replace the wheel bearings, replace the U joints, rebuild the brakes,replace all 3 brake hoses, etc.

Get the F-41 suspension sway bars off a V8 car, it will handle much better

Use at least a set of 15x7 wheels and 235 60 15 tires on all four corners-if not something larger.

If using a new or freshly rebuilt engine, monitor the oil pressure and temperature with a set of gauges to make sure everything is all right during the break in of the cam. You can even use a cheap set from the parts store and just put them in the engine bay while it is breaking in.
 

85 Cutlass Brougham

Geezer
Thread starter
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
0
Tampa Bay Area
v8power said:
does anyone have any pics or an explanation on how to re-rout the fuel line.

I just removed mine form a SBC Grand Prix by unbolting the body and the lifting it off the frame. I then did the same with my Cutlass and did it like a factory install. I had to replace the body mount bushings afterwards, but it was not too hard.
 

Silent viewer

Royal Smart Person
May 9, 2007
1,445
63
did you seriously remove the body for a engine swap???? i hope that you cleaned and painted the frame and under coated the body because that is way too much work for a engine swap! lol, the swap is plenty easy with the body on! did you use urythane bushings?...... rubber ones are junk, just my opinion...... :D
 

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