My Ford Truck Project (And Other Projects)

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Nov 4, 2012
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x2 on the fluid film. It's taken 3 applications now over 2 years or so but the safari van and work truck are well coated now. I found that after 6 months or so the rust on the floors and frame would flake off leaving a dry rust spot that would need to be re-coated. The doors and rockers I did replace on the work truck are still rust-free. They are coated in and out with the fluid film

There is a local shop that sprayed it last time, they did a really nice job. Fluid Film undercoating is all they do. They used to only carry Fluid Film but they carry some other dtuff now too. They have all the special wands and sprayers to get inside everywhere. Plus they have late and Sunday hours which is nice with my work schedule. Takes about 45 minutes to an hour and it's not overly expensive.
 
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Texas82GP

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Apr 3, 2015
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There is a local shop that sprayed it last time, they did a really nice job. Fluid Film undercoating is all they do. They used to only carry Fluid Film but they carry some other dtuff now too. They have all the special wands and sprayers to get inside everywhere. Plus they have late and Sunday hours which is nice with my work schedule. Takes about 45 minutes to an hour and it's not overly expensive.
That's a different world than here brother. I saw the rust on the cars in upstate New York, so I get it, but it is so different than here that it is really alien to me.
 
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That's a different world than here brother. I saw the rust on the cars in upstate New York, so I get it, but it is so different than here that it is really alien to me.

It sucks but it's just part of owning a car here. Most people don't keep new cars long enough for it to become an issue anyways. Part of me is tempted to just buy a $500 or $1000 winter beater and run it, but I don't want to buy another set of problems.

Some day I'll take a trip south and buy something rust free and clean. Until then I've got to deal with what I've got.
 
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Clutch

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That's a different world than here brother. I saw the rust on the cars in upstate New York, so I get it, but it is so different than here that it is really alien to me.
You can not comprehend the evil that enters body shops in the northeast LoL and the repairs that have come before me.... Oh the nightmares. This truck really isn't bad and he did a great job on it.
 
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You can not comprehend the evil that enters body shops in the northeast LoL and the repairs that have come before me.... Oh the nightmares. This truck really isn't bad and he did a great job on it.

Yeah wheel arches and rocker panels have a short life expectancy up here. I appreciate the kind words.
 
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Addressed the leaking transmission today. Bought all the stuff to fix it this morning.
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Straightforward process really. Pulled the shifters off and the seats out, pulled the carpet back, and removed the access panel.
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Then drained the fluid, pulled the top cover off the transmission and brought it over to the bench. Sprayed it out with some brake cleaner and popped those rubber plugs out.
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I used some Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker on the freeze plugs to make sure they sealed and tapped them in with a brass hammer. The plugs are Dorman part number 555-108. Most part stores don't stock them but there is a former Carquest that is now an Advance near me that has a bunch of old stock and they had a box of them on the shelf.
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I reused the cover gasket as it is rubber and was still pliable, but I did put a bead of gasket maker over it. I put some new strip caulk around the access panel and quickly painted the underside of it with some black Rustoleum.
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I decided I'd swap out the shifter bushings and seal since I was already here, even though I already replaced them once. I refilled the transmission from the top, much easier than trying to fill it from underneath. It just takes regular Dex/Merc.

It's all back together now, everything seems good. Hopefully it'll stop leaving puddles on the driveway or at least leave smaller ones.
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