My Ford Truck Project (And Other Projects)
- Thread starter joesregalproject
- Start date
- Status
Yeah I guess I probably put 200 miles or so on it. I should probably start tracking that, I can write off some of my mileage for work.
Damn this thing is a pig.
The plug in FM transmitters work well. I had one on my 70S. I just moved it to my Dakota, works great in it too. The best mpg I ever heard of one of these getting with the shorter box was 20 mpg Imperial, no doubt on the highway. Otherwise heavy and thirsty.I'd rather use what is in the radio. Pretty sure this is God's way of telling me to give it up and go buy an FM transmitter. Lmao
Dump some fuel system cleaner in there and see if the gauge doesn't come around.
Fuel tank gauge still seems to be working.
Did a little junkyard upgrade today. These trucks (except for the diesel) came with 95 amp alternators from the factory. They are still the 3G alternators, which are the ones Ford finally got right after the flaming 2Gs.
Stock 95 amp-
Lots of other Fords came with 3Gs in 130 (and higher) amp versions. 96-98 4.0L Explorers/Mountaineers (usually) came with 130 amp 3G alternators with the same side-mount bolt pattern as the small blocks, like my truck. I pulled this one from an Explorer earlier this year at U Pull and Pay and it has been sitting on my desk for months, I think I paid $30 for it. I got tired of looking at it today and decided to clean it and put it in.
I opened the case up, inspected the diodes and rectifier solder joints, felt the bearings, cleaned up the slip rings and cleaned up the case halves with some etching mag cleaner. It had some mud on the outside of it, but the internal components looked practically new. Hardly any corrosion, SKF bearings and Motorcraft voltage regulator. No signs of being a reman or a rebuild either. Everything looks factory Ford.
Put it back together, and it's a direct swap.
And it's putting out plenty of power to run all of the extra electrical equipment I have. The battery cable should be thick enough to handle the extra amperage.
Good, simple upgrade. Relax, I know I have a Buick to get back to.
Did a little junkyard upgrade today. These trucks (except for the diesel) came with 95 amp alternators from the factory. They are still the 3G alternators, which are the ones Ford finally got right after the flaming 2Gs.
Stock 95 amp-
Lots of other Fords came with 3Gs in 130 (and higher) amp versions. 96-98 4.0L Explorers/Mountaineers (usually) came with 130 amp 3G alternators with the same side-mount bolt pattern as the small blocks, like my truck. I pulled this one from an Explorer earlier this year at U Pull and Pay and it has been sitting on my desk for months, I think I paid $30 for it. I got tired of looking at it today and decided to clean it and put it in.
I opened the case up, inspected the diodes and rectifier solder joints, felt the bearings, cleaned up the slip rings and cleaned up the case halves with some etching mag cleaner. It had some mud on the outside of it, but the internal components looked practically new. Hardly any corrosion, SKF bearings and Motorcraft voltage regulator. No signs of being a reman or a rebuild either. Everything looks factory Ford.
Put it back together, and it's a direct swap.
And it's putting out plenty of power to run all of the extra electrical equipment I have. The battery cable should be thick enough to handle the extra amperage.
Good, simple upgrade. Relax, I know I have a Buick to get back to.
Figured I would give an end-of-summer update. I replaced the battery over the weekend as mentioned in a separate thread. Swapped the Walmart Value Power for a Motorcraft Max 850 CCA.
I noticed a month or so ago that my tailpipe was hanging low. I got underneath and took a look, one of the slip joints came loose. So today I finally took care of it. I clocked the pipe where it should be, and ran a couple welds over the joint. What's that saying about grinders and paint?
While I was under there, I noticed a few things. The SEM Rust Trap I applied is coming off in sheets in a few spots on the frame. I don't think I'm gonna do anything about it but I'm kinda pissed over it.
The shift rail plugs on top of the shift fork assembly are hemorrhaging fluid. It has always leaked but it has gotten worse. Sealing those will be an upcoming job.
Another thing I noticed is that the right front radius arm has a hairline crack in it on the bottom flange. Who knows how it got there or how long it's been there. I'm suppose it could be welded but its probably better to just replace the arm. For now I'm just keeping an eye on it.
Last thing to note is the Fluid Film is still on there. It's been almost two years and there is still a nice coating on it. I'm gonna have it resprayed before winter but it really seems to do a great job at keeping the rust to a minimum. Definitely messy but better than the alternative IMO.
The way things are looking this truck is probably gonna see some winter miles for the first time since I've redone it. I'm not thrilled about it, but I'm not ready to buy a new truck yet and this is the one I've got. I'll just have to see how things play out.
I noticed a month or so ago that my tailpipe was hanging low. I got underneath and took a look, one of the slip joints came loose. So today I finally took care of it. I clocked the pipe where it should be, and ran a couple welds over the joint. What's that saying about grinders and paint?
While I was under there, I noticed a few things. The SEM Rust Trap I applied is coming off in sheets in a few spots on the frame. I don't think I'm gonna do anything about it but I'm kinda pissed over it.
The shift rail plugs on top of the shift fork assembly are hemorrhaging fluid. It has always leaked but it has gotten worse. Sealing those will be an upcoming job.
Another thing I noticed is that the right front radius arm has a hairline crack in it on the bottom flange. Who knows how it got there or how long it's been there. I'm suppose it could be welded but its probably better to just replace the arm. For now I'm just keeping an eye on it.
Last thing to note is the Fluid Film is still on there. It's been almost two years and there is still a nice coating on it. I'm gonna have it resprayed before winter but it really seems to do a great job at keeping the rust to a minimum. Definitely messy but better than the alternative IMO.
The way things are looking this truck is probably gonna see some winter miles for the first time since I've redone it. I'm not thrilled about it, but I'm not ready to buy a new truck yet and this is the one I've got. I'll just have to see how things play out.
x2 on the fluid film. It's taken 3 applications now over 2 years or so but the safari van and work truck are well coated now. I found that after 6 months or so the rust on the floors and frame would flake off leaving a dry rust spot that would need to be re-coated. The doors and rockers I did replace on the work truck are still rust-free. They are coated in and out with the fluid film
I sprayed the heck out of the inside of the 88's doors, rust has not gotten much worse. I coated mine it again anticipating some winter driving. I also threw on some of the new Liquid Wrench Rust inhibitor.
- Status
