My Inheritance
- Thread starter Turbo Zach
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Not familiar with the cold weather concern with an external only cooler. Please explain.
If you use a big external transmission cooler and you bypass the cooler in the radiator, the transmission fluid can run too cold in cold weather. Too cold can be as bad or worse than too hot. When the fluid is extremely cold and thick, the transmission can suffer. You want 160-180. I put a 40k GVWR rated cooler on my truck and it ran too cool, even with the high stall speed. I had to plumb in a thermostatic bypass valve and now it runs 160 all day long, even when I abuse it on a 100°+ day.
The Effect of Cold Weather on Your Transmission
Some transmission problems really are unique to the cold weather. You may be surprised to discover a few of the following and how it impacts your vehicle.
advancedtransmission.com
When you drop the gear say from 4.56 to 3.70 it puts more load on the drivetrain and can make a converter a few 100 rpm looser.
Good point. I will dig around my Dad's shop and see if I can find some information on the cam and what not this weekend.
It is not plumbed in the radiator. It has a external radiator about 10×8 I would say. This car will not probably see cold weather or rain. I do not have functioning wipers yet. Wiper motor and harness burned up. That is why I rewired the car front to back. I found after the fact the wiper harness was not part of the kit. It was also 90° outside with a lot of humidity Monday. Do you think my shroud needs some holes in it besides the two fan holes?
If you can find the .050 numbers on the cam that will give you a good idea what rpm band you’re looking at. I would expect with 9.5-1 it’s probably peaking in the 6500 area.
I don't want to bill myself as an electric fan expert as I'm not one.
Will the car maintain temp at idle but heats up going down the road? If that were the case, it would lead me to believe not enough air is getting past the fan/shroud assembly at speed to cool the car. I've seen OEM fan assemblies with rubber flaps on them that presumably let air bypass the fans/shroud at speed. On the other hand, the fans on my Roadmaster don't have a shroud at all....
Dumb question: are you sure the fans are pulling air across the radiator (not pushing air to the front of the car)? Sometimes it's the easy things.
You could possibly pull your fan/shroud assembly and see if the car will maintain temp going down the road with unrestricted airflow across the radiator. If that does the trick, you'd think your fan/shroud assembly is too restrictive and isn't allowing enough airflow.
Another idea, is it possible the air is bypassing the radiator by going around it? Lots of vehicles have airdams that direct the air from the grill through the radiator. Perhaps your car should have them but they are missing?
What temp is your thermostat?
Fluid matters. Up here we go from -50°C to 100°C. I bypassed the radiator cooler and run a front mounted external on the TBSS and have never had a cold flow problem on Amsoil ATL.
I agree on the ducting. Most older cars don't have ducting to channel the air through and across the core, or air dams under the core support to create a low pressure area behind the rad. Enclosed fan shrouds are kind of a backwards solution to mitigating flow losses when the other two are not present.
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