My (slow) RKE conversion

[88AZSS]

Here’s where I mounted mine. Right behind the glove box on the AC box. Nice flat spot that fits the module almost perfectly. Took some Velcro strips and it sits on there fine. Ran my wires to the relay control on the passengers hinge pillar and have the “program” wire accessible for that initial remote pairing but not touching ground after that as to not mess up the programming. All works well.

 

[pagrunt]

It's under the package shelf on the driver's side.

View attachment 208880

Here’s where I mounted mine. Right behind the glove box on the AC box. Nice flat spot that fits the module almost perfectly. Took some Velcro strips and it sits on there fine. Ran my wires to the relay control on the passengers hinge pillar and have the “program” wire accessible for that initial remote pairing but not touching ground after that as to not mess up the programming. All works well.

Thanks for the info. That heater box idea looks like a winner to reduce wire needs down.

 

[pagrunt]

Was playing around with it some more & testing a few of the extras I have to make sure they all work. Do have an issue with one of the four fobs as the button pad was heavily used but it works. Even getting around a few blonde moments I now have two programmed fobs for the module I'm using. Experimented with a toggle switch with the pink key hot wire (circuit 39) to see if I could trip the light delay to work & nothing.

 

[69hurstolds]

Ok, maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but I've had one of these RKE modules hanging around in a box that I got from 87National on here for a few years now, but I never got the fobs for it. I really like the late 90s/early 2000s style fobs, the black plastic ones that look like a gigantic guitar pick. Those early version square looking ones suck balls, IMO. I guess my goal would be to lock/unlock the doors and pop the trunk when needed.

The fobs I prefer are kinda like this:

Which application/part number/frequency fob would I need or do these RKE units have different frequencies depending on year? I seem to recall that subject came up in discussion somewhere, but you know how that goes.

 

[pagrunt]

Ok, maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but I've had one of these RKE modules hanging around in a box that I got from 87National on here for a few years now, but I never got the fobs for it. I really like the late 90s/early 2000s style fobs, the black plastic ones that look like a gigantic guitar pick. Those early version square looking ones suck balls, IMO. I guess my goal would be to lock/unlock the doors and pop the trunk when needed.

The fobs I prefer are kinda like this:

Which application/part number/frequency fob would I need or do these RKE units have different frequencies depending on year? I seem to recall that subject came up in discussion somewhere, but you know how that goes.

That's the style but with out the horn button. The back will read like this:
GM16245100-29
CANADA:218101368
MODEL/FCCID:AB01502T
Note 0 & O look the same.

 

[69hurstolds]

That's the style but with out the horn button. The back will read like this:
GM16245100-29
CANADA:218101368
MODEL/FCCID:AB01502T
Note 0 & O look the same.

Thanks. Found a couple of decent used GM ones with those numbers on the back on ebay for $20 each, about the going rate.

Original GM CHEVROLET PONTIAC keyless entry remote fob transmitter ABO1502T OEM | eBay

FCC ID: ABO1502T. Original GM keyless entry remote-OEM. TRANSMITTER, BATTERIES AND EVERY BUTTON ARE IN GREAT WORKING CONDITION! COMPATIBILITY - will work with OEM keyless systems. MAKE SURE YOU MATCH FCC ID AND/OR PART NUMBER with your current remote or one suggested by Owner's manual -.

www.ebay.com

 

[pagrunt]

Giving this a bump since I got a little more into the power mirror conversion than I thought I would of.

 

[pagrunt]

Just a bump to keep it going.

 

[pagrunt]

Another bump but should be picking back up since I'll have a complete car to work with doing the same conversion to the Jr. Mechanic's '79.

 

[pagrunt]

Could kinda say I finally did something related to this thread since I actually have a car body here to work with. I grabbed the control module for Jr.'s car to see where the best options for mounting locations for strong signal. The spot behind the dash as others have done will be the easiest & use less wire. Under the trunk it looks like the inside half of the trunk lid hinge box (or what ever you want to call it) could be a good spot as it will clear any moving parts & the harness can be secured out of the way. Not much but atleast something.