Need a Starting Point for 1987 Monte Carlo SS - BBC project

fleming442

fleming442

Geezer
Dec 26, 2013
6,429
113
haha! I debated it! I actually put 3.70's in the ford 9 with the close ratio T-56. I wanted to go for highway speeds and stuff, I want to be able to cruise and get around since I plan on using this all the time. But I do fear that maybe I'll have to go with a shorter gear in the back eventually! We'll see. I'm notching the chassis for now, since I already spent all the money on the new fuel system and everything to make it look stock. We'll see! Hopefully I can feel the Monte run again by Feb.
3.70s are a good choice; most 6 speeds have a 3.xx 1st. I have a 2.56 1st in my Muncie with 3.70s in a 9, and it'll still spin at will(276/60-15s).
 
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RGBody87

RGBody87

Greasemonkey
Jan 7, 2018
140
28
Okay! Here is an update! The car is on a lift, still, unfortunately.... but I pulled the manifolds off and I installed the dust plate and flywheel, new pilot bearing and I am prepping to install the T56 Magnum this Saturday. HERES THE NEW PROBLEM! I have NO CLUE how ANYONE fit the Hooker Header 2455 headers! I got the one write up that someone was nice enough to send me, but I have no clue how the hell they will fit on the driver's side of the car! Is something horribly wrong? Did you have to pull the engine to get them in position first? What a nightmare! I am trying to slide them up and in before everything else is in the way, but the problem is the lower control arm mount on the passenger side, and on the driver's side it seems like I have to remove my steering rag joint and all of the brake lines/vent line, and possibly still have to remove more. Plus I'm getting nervous about where I'll have to run the lines to the transmission slave cylinder.

Where the hell do I start!?

I'll post up some pictures to show off the new equipment. I'm almost done installing the Ford 9" and all the rear UMI Suspension. Wilwood sent me single directional rotors... but both of them are for the rear right... So I'm waiting to get the new part in.

Anyone feel good enough to take on a few questions about brakes as well? Thanks guys! You've been a huge help.
 
TURNA

TURNA

Geezer
Jul 24, 2009
7,779
113
Socialist NY
The drivers side should go right in ZERO issues.

The pass side you MUST shave down slightly the lower control arm mount.

What mounts are you using

And yes 90% of full length long tube header you will have to move the engine around to get them to fit


Also ditch that rag joint and get a Jeep or Astro shaft in there
 
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GuysMonteSS

GuysMonteSS

Royal Smart Person
May 21, 2011
1,065
113
Kentville,Nova Scotia,Canada
Okay! Here is an update! The car is on a lift, still, unfortunately.... but I pulled the manifolds off and I installed the dust plate and flywheel, new pilot bearing and I am prepping to install the T56 Magnum this Saturday. HERES THE NEW PROBLEM! I have NO CLUE how ANYONE fit the Hooker Header 2455 headers! I got the one write up that someone was nice enough to send me, but I have no clue how the hell they will fit on the driver's side of the car! Is something horribly wrong? Did you have to pull the engine to get them in position first? What a nightmare! I am trying to slide them up and in before everything else is in the way, but the problem is the lower control arm mount on the passenger side, and on the driver's side it seems like I have to remove my steering rag joint and all of the brake lines/vent line, and possibly still have to remove more. Plus I'm getting nervous about where I'll have to run the lines to the transmission slave cylinder.

Where the hell do I start!?

I'll post up some pictures to show off the new equipment. I'm almost done installing the Ford 9" and all the rear UMI Suspension. Wilwood sent me single directional rotors... but both of them are for the rear right... So I'm waiting to get the new part in.

Anyone feel good enough to take on a few questions about brakes as well? Thanks guys! You've been a huge help.
The headers need to be in the engine compartment before you drop the engine in.
It's almost like putting a puzzle together,drop the engine a bit,move the headers around a bit,etc..
The passenger side lower control arm mount will need to be cut and welded.
Guy
 
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TURNA

TURNA

Geezer
Jul 24, 2009
7,779
113
Socialist NY
The passenger side lower control arm mount DOES NOT NEED to be cut and welded.

I know every GBody has it's own twists and turns in the chassis depending on how the car was treated.

But I have a big block in mine and did not have to cut and or weld anything to get these headers to fit.

A minor bit of grinding to the lower pass side front mount is all I had to do. Just enough to round it off.
 
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Chevyman540

Chevyman540

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 11, 2016
37
18
The passenger side lower control arm mount DOES NOT NEED to be cut and welded.

I know every GBody has it's own twists and turns in the chassis depending on how the car was treated.

But I have a big block in mine and did not have to cut and or weld anything to get these headers to fit.

A minor bit of grinding to the lower pass side front mount is all I had to do. Just enough to round it off.
When I did mine, I tried the hooker competition headers from my 69 Chevelle. One side fit fine the other side, I would of needed to cut about 3/4" off the lower control arm bracket. Those headers had 2' tubes and I'm not sure of which model number they were. Even that being said my 2241's, I still ground on the bracket a little. I've got stock style lower motor mounts and what looks like the shorter motor side mounts.
 
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TURNA

TURNA

Geezer
Jul 24, 2009
7,779
113
Socialist NY
Being you had a 69 you may have been using Hooker 2251's
 
RGBody87

RGBody87

Greasemonkey
Jan 7, 2018
140
28
The drivers side should go right in ZERO issues.

The pass side you MUST shave down slightly the lower control arm mount.

What mounts are you using

And yes 90% of full length long tube header you will have to move the engine around to get them to fit


Also ditch that rag joint and get a Jeep or Astro shaft in there

Can you give me any other information on the shaft replacement? Possibly a link to another informational post you may have been a part of already?
I'll take apart the steering tomorrow but I want to order the replacement parts ASAP and get it back together. I have to put the new transmission in as well! I guess I'll do that after the headers are in.
 
RGBody87

RGBody87

Greasemonkey
Jan 7, 2018
140
28
The headers need to be in the engine compartment before you drop the engine in.
It's almost like putting a puzzle together,drop the engine a bit,move the headers around a bit,etc..
The passenger side lower control arm mount will need to be cut and welded.
Guy
I'm at a bit of a stand still.. I have to fit the new transmission but I still need a transmission mount to come in for the T56.. .then I have to take it all out and fit the headers in there somehow. I'm also wrapping the headers so I'm extra nervous for fitment.
 
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