Neutral safety switch/reverse light switch ?'s

[Tony1968]

Installing both on Hurst shifter. Bottom one is neutral safety switch so I have that correct. Problem is that the little adjustment while tightening bolts and nuts either makes both switches open or closed no matter what. It's been at least 25 years since I've done this and basically one handed. Am I missing something? Did anyone have to tweak the actuation levers on switches to get them perfect?
I have read directions and searched online many times and I have found nothing about this issue. Any help is truly appreciated
There are 3 nubs on shifter that actuate each switch. First makes the neutral while in park. Second is reverse. Third is for neutral obviously

 

[Fishbait17]

If I’m under standing right what I did is have one of the switches pressing down on the bulge that is supposed to engages the switch and then I tightened it down. Hope this helps if not let me know

 

[GroceryGetter83]

What wire(s) are you using to make the neutral safety switch work? I’m installing my B&M Stealth Pro Stick and I’d like to tie the factory NSS into this to be safe.

 

[fleming442]

The factory NSS is a physical lock in the column not allowing the key to turn forward. It doesn't interrupt the starter wire; you need a relay.

 

[64nailhead]

I did it without the relay. I took the wires from the reverse switch that has the pink wire for run and accessory and spliced them into the shifter along with the backup light wiring.

I have to admit that a relay would be a better program, but also there is not much amperage requirements in my setups because I'm running everything, including fuel pumps, injectors, coils, etc., via an aftermarket ECU, either MS or Holley that is powering a series of relays. So my pink ignition wire is running a relay and the purple wire is only energizing the starter solenoid. The microswitch has done the job for that without issue. I believe the one on the Hurst is rated for 15 amps which is plenty.

Chris,
I can attach photos if you'd like - it's a PITA to access these two plugs on the column switch with the dash and column fully installed. But a piece of cake with the dash out. I have good photos as we are in process of swapping everything from one car to another. Also, what are you using for trans brake? The brake switch is in the same neck of the woods - we had to tie into that for TCC control and launch (even though we don't have a transbrake).

FWIW, this is necessity when converting a column shift into a floor shift column - along with the ziptie on the shifter linkage lol.

 

[Tony1968]

I did it without the relay. I took the wires from the reverse switch that has the pink wire for run and accessory and spliced them into the shifter along with the backup light wiring.

I have to admit that a relay would be a better program, but also there is not much amperage requirements in my setups because I'm running everything, including fuel pumps, injectors, coils, etc., via an aftermarket ECU, either MS or Holley that is powering a series of relays. So my pink ignition wire is running a relay and the purple wire is only energizing the starter solenoid. The microswitch has done the job for that without issue. I believe the one on the Hurst is rated for 15 amps which is plenty.

Chris,
I can attach photos if you'd like - it's a PITA to access these two plugs on the column switch with the dash and column fully installed. But a piece of cake with the dash out. I have good photos as we are in process of swapping everything from one car to another. Also, what are you using for trans brake? The brake switch is in the same neck of the woods - we had to tie into that for TCC control and launch (even though we don't have a transbrake).

FWIW, this is necessity when converting a column shift into a floor shift column - along with the ziptie on the shifter linkage lol.

Can you explain the ziptie on linkage?

 

[fleming442]

It's probably to hold the collar in park, so the key still turns.

 

[Tony1968]

I understand. But if you had a column shift (and now floor shift) why/how would the column move from the park location? Are we talking about driving/vibration that can cause it to pop out of park? Just seems impossible to me but I'm probably wrong

 

[fleming442]

I understand. But if you had a column shift (and now floor shift) why/how would the column move from the park location? Are we talking about driving/vibration that can cause it to pop out of park? Just seems impossible to me but I'm probably wrong

Yes, the collar will move because errybody building a "racecar" removes the backdrive rod, and that is what holds the collar in position. Look at all the posts with people wondering why they can't get their key out. It should be 3rd most popular behind "how big of a wheel can I fit" and "what do I need to put a 1000hp LS in".

 

[64nailhead]

I understand. But if you had a column shift (and now floor shift) why/how would the column move from the park location? Are we talking about driving/vibration that can cause it to pop out of park? Just seems impossible to me but I'm probably wrong

Yes, the collar will move because errybody building a "racecar" removes the backdrive rod, and that is what holds the collar in position. Look at all the posts with people wondering why they can't get their key out. It should be 3rd most popular behind "how big of a wheel can I fit" and "what do I need to put a 1000hp LS in".

Fleming is spot on with the issue here. The ziptie is required is on the lever where the shift linkage used to be attached on the column. It was held in place by the transmission lever. Once that is removed for a shift cable it will flail about wildly and either not allow the key to be removed or not allow the key to turn into the start position.

Bruce is the winner - 2 days in a row you have made me burst out laughing