(new) kinda Sbc won't fire

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Yeah it looks horrible,idk if I should clean it up or buy a new cap or a whole new set up,the pick up coil looks filthy also.What would cause that?I think the timing was off..I put the new motor in &barely ran it then the tyranny gave &I was busted from the motor so it just sat ..could being that dirty be the problem?I traced the ignition wire it appears to go straight from the dizzy to the fuse box.Should I check that slot with a test light ?Also I have the ignition wire taped up right before it goes into dizzy from where the kill switch use to run off of it...Can I test it there for 12 volts after undoing the tape?
 
I already suggested a tune up...before I start looking for problems that might not even exist I do the basics first
 
I know you suggested a tune up,but everything on the engine had less than 200 miles since the build ,I know things can go bad just from sitting. Just wondering what would of caused so much build up in the cap in that short of time?
 
it's been sitting 3 years....I leave my car sit the winter and in the spring I change all the fluids, cap, rotor and plugs before I start it
 
Even with low milage after mechanical things set for an extended period time they corrode up and break down. And in my opinion 3 years is not horrable but still significant. I would have to agree with the previous post throw a whole tune up at it to start with. The build up inside the distributor dosen't suprise me at all. It's gonna draw moisture its the nature of it setting for that long. When u mentioned the way it cranked it seems a little odd to me. Especialy if its cranking that hard cool. Mine cranks a little hard when it's hot, but that's because I have a lot of timeing in it. I also had problems with to light of spring with my curve kit not returning the advance all the way back when I shut the car off. That made it crank hard. Check to see if your advance is moving free they can draw moister and freeze up, and be locked in one spot. My friend had a simeller situation, and it was because he ran the main ground to the body instead of the block. I didnt think much about it at the time, but weak grounds mess with electronics. We switched it around and it was fine. And not to ask a foolish question, but is all the connections tight. I made myself look like a fool this one time over a loose connection. Lol. I couldn't get my car to start a good semaritan actually stopped to help. We ran jumpper cables to it and waited and waited and it just would barely crank. Long story short. The main power wire was about to fall of the starter post.
But as far as no spark I'd check the 12 volt source to the distributor first, and then id would check the pick up moduel inside the distributor. Also unpluge the ignition wire to the cap take the cap off,and crank the motor to make sure the rotor button is turning. I don't know if you have a roller cam, but I've wiped out a distributor gear before.
 
Thanks..yes I'm gonna admit the hard cranking is scaring me a bit.My old man told me a story once about how he let an engine sit outside for a winter&it locked the damn motor up.So could it be possible something is built up in there making it not wanna turn over easily?If so after I get spark I'm hoping it'll fire & I can run it out.But what would you guys suggest if something is making it rough to crank.
As far as the grounds ok the neg is on the alternator always has been since the first motor ,then there's a ground that is coming off neg cable & running to radiator support.There's a big ground running from the block to the chassis & it does have Morrison & needs cleaning I imagine the wire on the starter are the same.I have a few paint jobs in the shop I need to get out then she's going in.Now I do bodywork&some paint from my shop for a living now that's my strong point I know all of the basics on swapping starters,alt,intake carbs ,brakes,etc etc but theres a lot I don't know the more advanced stuff like for instance my dizzy don't have vacuum.I know how to replace it,but don't know to set the timing I usually would just set %1 @ tdc & drop it in & adjust it by ear. I'm really ready to get this think going.
 
Ok so the test light showed I have juice going to dizzy&dizzy spun but when I went to flip dizzy over whatever plugs in next to the ignition on the dizzy wasn't there so I lost all juice to the car.Its been so long since I've worked on this things I can't remember what goes I'm there or what color.Can't seem to find anything either..here's a bad pic
20131112_184439.jpg
 
Lost all power to the car? The plug in your explaning and from what I see is the tach terminal. If you look above were they plug in it will say bat which is where your 12 volt ignition source plugs in and the other says tach. Which is where your tachometer plugs in. Aftermarket tach wire is usually green , but none of that shouldn't of lost power to the whole car
 
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