Oil leak :smh:

[jmt455]

I know you are looking for help with the oil leak, but I see something in the first photo that you might also want to fix.

The cross-shaft that comes from the transmission shift lever to the pivot bracket on the frame is missing a spring, plastic bushing and washer. The plastic bushing sits in the "cup" area on the frame bracket.

If you have a column shifter, it's probably feeling pretty sloppy with those parts missing.

I bought a replacement kit from Inline Tube. You can get them from a variety of suppliers.

thank you...for the info. I was hoping someone would chim in on that photo.

I actually have a floor shifter and sometimes the ignition gets stuck and i have to twist the back of the steering wheel to get it released.

do you have a pic of it intact?

I'll try to shoot you some pix tomorrow.
I'll also scan the linkage adjustment procedure from the Factory Service Manual...it takes some patience to get that all working perfectly.

 

[CHRIS.O]

Its not because it is an Oldsmobile engine. Use a neoprene seal for the rear main and not a cheap rope seal. Also do not use gaskets where the intake meets the china wall (front and back of the lifter valley.) Use RTV, a thick bead for the china wall. For my 455 I used a 460 ford rear main seal and never had a leak. It is more the quality of gaskets rather than the design of the engine. Chevrolet's have these problems too. I can never use those rubber intake china wall gaskets without a leak on either brand of engine.

 

[CHRIS.O]

Double check with the hardcore Oldsmobile guys but I am pretty sure this is the seal you use for an Olds 350. Yes I know it says its for a Ford but so was my 455 seal. The engine builder told me he would never use a rope seal in any of his engines.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-BS6141/

 

[Evan11]

quote="Mathematic"]

no problem, 5w30 and 10w30 is too thin of an oil for these old engines anyway..IMO

interesting...now you got me thinking. I wonder if this is the reason why my oil pressure keeps dropping from 50psi t0 20psi when the engine gets to operating temp..

thats normal

really? thanks, thats one less problem i have to worry about then...[/quote]

mine does 50 psi cold idle, 40 psi warm going down the road, and 20-25 psi warm @ idle

if its running 20 psi warm going dwn the road, that's pretty low

 

[Ringers]

The only way to keep engine completely dry is to run a vacuum pump. Especially the rope sealed engines. Synthetic will leak more. The drawback to vacuum pumps is the expense. Good pumps are in the thousand dollar range, or you could run a dry sump, the scagenging side creates a vacuum in the engine too. Oil leaks suck.

 

[jmt455]

I know you are looking for help with the oil leak, but I see something in the first photo that you might also want to fix.

The cross-shaft that comes from the transmission shift lever to the pivot bracket on the frame is missing a spring, plastic bushing and washer. The plastic bushing sits in the "cup" area on the frame bracket.

If you have a column shifter, it's probably feeling pretty sloppy with those parts missing.

I bought a replacement kit from Inline Tube. You can get them from a variety of suppliers.

thank you...for the info. I was hoping someone would chim in on that photo.

I actually have a floor shifter and sometimes the ignition gets stuck and i have to twist the back of the steering wheel to get it released.

do you have a pic of it intact?

Here's what it looks like when the spring and bushing are installed:

This is the adjustment procedure from the Service Manual (Steps 1 through 7 on the left side):

 

[Mathematic]

I really appreciate the detailed info...just got back from advaced auto and showed them the pic of what i needed and they had no clue to what i was talking about. showed the pic and they were still dumbfounded ....just to be clear. This whole piece is called "transmission shift control"?

 

[jmt455]

I really appreciate the detailed info...just got back from advaced auto and showed them the pic of what i needed and they had no clue to what i was talking about. showed the pic and they were still dumbfounded ....just to be clear. This whole piece is called "transmission shift control"?

The rod is the Shift Rod. The parts you need are the plastic bushing, the spring and the spring seat (washer). I don't know if you'll find these at an auto parts store; I got mine from Inline Tube. I know that other restoration part suppliers carry these (like Year One, Ames Performance, Mike's Montes, etc).

You can also get them from any GM dealer and they are not very expensive.

 

[Mathematic]

Look, or feel, around the rear intake gasket. My dad has had numerous issues with his 455 in that area. He ran synthetic oil and could never keep a rear intake gasket in it. He went back to standard 10w40 and the problems have slowed. When I tore down my 425 I noticed a HUGE clump of 30 year old motor oil and dirt in the back of the intake and around where the dist is mounted. Im starting to think this is a bigger issue amongst Olds engines than I thought 🙁

havent took it to the mechanic yet because of the holidays..i have it in the garage on jack stands, now. I cleaned everything and i still cant tell where its coming from. I also felt around the rear intake like you suggested and it was dry as a bone. I've read there is some stuff that you can put in your oil to swell the rear main seal...any info on this?

 

[Mathematic]

went to pick up some valve cover rubber gaskets to try to fix this oil leak from the passenger valve cover but after some inspection, It looks like its leaking from this bolt on the head. I can tell some blue rtv was used but theres still some leakage. can i just remove the bolt and seal it back up?

then again, i could be all wrong and it still could be the gasket. it just looks like its coming from the bolt.