Oil Recommendation

[Clarmo]

I don't usually mention suppliers/manufacturers names but in this case I'm not trying to discredit anyone.
We use Brad Penn in all our race cars and street cars (older cars, no emission cats) My friend put Brad Penn in his 2003 F-150 and it ruined the Cats. When we suspected the oil was the issue, I call Brad Penn and they said, it could have been the oils additives that cause the cat failure.
It's cheaper to call the manufacturers and ask then to repair later.
As an automotive Tech for 27 years, I'm all for synthetics...No cons there for me. There are way too many myths about oils and synthetic oils out there, and I'm not going to get into a huge debate about it. Use them if you would like... they are better. I wouldn't stray too far from the viscosity that the manufacture "designed and machined" the engine to operate with. Some newer cars have variable rate oiling systems, changing the oils viscosity will starve the motor for oil. I'm not saying this will happen to yours but fact is they designed these engines this way. They designed yours a certain way too.
Use good oil (Valvoline, Max life, high mileage, full synthetic) and don't forget a good filter (Napa gold), change your oil often and you will never have any issues.

 

[V8 Rumble]

You don't need the extra zinc on stock engines lo power engines. I spent some time on the phone with Brad penn, valvoline and Mobil about the same thing. Use the recommended manufacturer viscosity or the closest to it for your engine.

This is a great video with valvoline

 

[Texas82GP]

Diesel oil also has the zddp needed to protect the flat tappet cam lobes. Dad runs Shell Rotella in his 390. Diesel oil is higher detergent than standard motor oil but I don't see that as a negative. There are separate zddp additive packages you can buy and just add to a regular name brand oil. Read and follow the directions as too much zddp is a bad thing too. As far as what weight to run, my opinion would be based on your climate (where you are) but I would probably run 10w30. Capacity should be easy to look up online. As far as the leak goes you could try the high mileage oil (check to make sure it has enough zddp for the cam) and see if it's additives will cure the leak by swelling the seals slightly. I'm not a big believer in chemical cures though.

 

[Clarmo]

You don't need the extra zinc on stock engines lo power engines. I spent some time on the phone with Brad penn, valvoline and Mobil about the same thing. Use the recommended manufacturer viscosity or the closest to it for your engine.

This is a great video with valvoline

That really is a GREAT video!!! Thanks for sharing it. I'm sure anyone that watches the whole thing will learn from it. I did!
Eric could have left out the part about the Toyota with 400,000 miles on it, seemed a little over the top and proves how some of these myths are engraved into our brains. But he did a good job.

 

[pencero]

Oil companies lie. They took the zinc/ zddp out willfully so you have to use these additives. You'll fry that old v6 with a full synthetic. Just use regular oil or blend and use the zinc/zddp additive after you break it in a little. Going full synthetic is something to do on a motor thats worth it like an ls with a turbo or something newer like that. It's not even worth it to treat some old dog v6 like royalty and spend dozens extra$$$. Too rich for it's blood! Believe it or not the cheaper oil will work better if you just add the zinc/zddp yourself down the line when you top it off.

 

[pontiacgp]

You'll fry that old v6 with a full synthetic.

How???

 

[pencero]

When I put synthetic in an old v6 all the old deposits came off at once and the best way I can describe it is whipping up a custard with all the black stuff that came out. You might say 'seafoam it' well it doesn't even rev high enough without stalling and that just can clog it worse resulting in more work, not worth it if its just to daily drive for a minute. If a v6 is old just add the additive little bits at a time as you top off. it's probably going to burn some oil regardless if its high mileage so you should be checking it all the time and thats when to add it, but not in large ammounts.

 

[pencero]

PS after I stopped using castrol & penzoil on my older cars they did not 'smoke' anymore.

 

[pontiacgp]

When I put synthetic in an old v6 all the old deposits came off at once and the best way I can describe it is whipping up a custard with all the black stuff that came out. You might say 'seafoam it' well it doesn't even rev high enough without stalling and that just can clog it worse resulting in more work, not worth it if its just to daily drive for a minute. If a v6 is old just add the additive little bits at a time as you top off. it's probably going to burn some oil regardless if its high mileage so you should be checking it all the time and thats when to add it, but not in large ammounts.

that is just your experience as you perceived it. Synthetic oil lets the engine rotate easier, is forgiving if the engine overheats and using the proper filter it lasts much longer than conventional oil.

 

[pencero]

It resulted in clogged cats and I was just trying to get it running again so I could use it to get to work because it was a daily driver POS not a race car! When an engine has high mileage or it's just plain old it needs some resistance too, it doesn't want to spin too easily or that ends in negative results! If it's a work car synthetic is a waste of money and could lead to unwanted work. Work that would get the car running perfectly again such as doing cats/exhaust and gaskets, yes, but what if he just needs it work right now. You can dress a dirty slob in a suit and tie if you want to, but it's not a bmw or a grand cherokee it's a 3.8l and it likes to dine on dinosaur bones - bone in...
It's not a vegetarian