Olds ticket to 9s... LS swap adventure.

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I didn’t know anyone had a Trans brake valve body that allows for full auto operation. Now you have me considering it as a winter upgrade.
 
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transmission surgery complete. Kinda....

Tore the pump to case seal so gotta pick on up tomorrow to be finished.
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But it is ready for trans brake goodness.

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Had a conversation with Jakes Performance this morning, its their brake and I needed a few things answered. I discovered that I can run this full manual or full auto with nothing needed for reverse engagement. Thats kinda exciting.

Get a front seal from the trans shop tomorrow and this will be ready for install. Then I can start work on the cage install...

Will be needing your expertise when i tear mine apart! LOL.

Good to know that the D1 can be used in both auto or manual shifted. I assume that on TB in 1st then you'll have to shove in into drive to get it to work right? I know his D3 can be used in auto and you dont have to leave in first.
 
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I didn’t know anyone had a Trans brake valve body that allows for full auto operation. Now you have me considering it as a winter upgrade.

If I have this correct:
The D1 brake valve body can be run full auto as is, you can get the full manual option by adding their control module, the downside is brake actuation only in first.
The D3 brake valve body can run full auto or full manual with control module, can also actuate in 1-3 gears but requires you to actuate the brake to get reverse.

Will be needing your expertise when i tear mine apart! LOL.

Good to know that the D1 can be used in both auto or manual shifted. I assume that on TB in 1st then you'll have to shove in into drive to get it to work right? I know his D3 can be used in auto and you dont have to leave in first.
Lol. think about it. I destroyed my trans once already.

I believe it is AUTO first to run TB function. I will have to confirm once I wire it up.
 
If I have this correct:
The D1 brake valve body can be run full auto as is, you can get the full manual option by adding their control module, the downside is brake actuation only in first.
The D3 brake valve body can run full auto or full manual with control module, can also actuate in 1-3 gears but requires you to actuate the brake to get reverse.


Lol. think about it. I destroyed my trans once already.

I believe it is AUTO first to run TB function. I will have to confirm once I wire it up.

Just means you know what not to do now lol
 
Got a fair amount done today, got the pump seal for the trans and got it all buttoned up, everything spins like it should and end play felt about what it was before.


Began prepping to pull the body off and start metal work.

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little shot of the space I manage to be productive in. Need to be a little creative.
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So once I get the split stuff ready I started mocking up the main hoop. I only had one body bolt break, and none of the other captured nuts broke, so that was a pleasant surprise.
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I cut out the holes for the main hoop, put the cross bar in to spread it and started laying out the other times to get an idea of what goes where.
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So far I am very happy with the fitment of the Rhodes Racing cage. Other than the halo having some bends near the main hoop attachment, everything is fit well and cut with enough excess to accommodate some variance. We will see if that continues once I start welding it up....
 
Are the rear bars straight? I can’t tell in the pic. They were in my cage kit and there was no way I was getting them to the frame behind the wheels.
 
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Are the rear bars straight? I can’t tell in the pic. They were in my cage kit and there was no way I was getting them to the frame behind the wheels.
They are straight. They are going to tie to the suspension to pick up the load there. Just not sure how yet.
 
Did pretty good on the list today. Body is ready to lift off the frame. Put it back on the ground to left the body and started to remove the dash.


I have to say, I found the regal dash far more user friendly to remove. Olds dashes seem more complicated. Maybe it's just me though.
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I started to thin the factory harness. Removing the power locks/windows (I have manual window regulators to go in), AC, heater, computer stuff, stereo, and basicly everything that isn't a light, signal, or horn.
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I removed the remaining air ducting and speakers, lots of room for activities under the dash now. Going to make some small routing changes to the Holley harness to tidy things up in the wiring.


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I'm also hoping to be able to run the dash bar behind the dash and have the front cage bars behind the dash. Im hoping it is a gamble that pays off.
 
Got the passenger door essentials done today. Even though it fought me pretty hard.

I removed the power window regulator, and had a good look inside the door.

The inside of this car looks better than the outside....
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Shame really....

So I started cutting stuff...
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It was a huge pain in the *ss. Not a lot of room, sucky air compressor for my 3" zip cut saw, not having enough 3" zip discs so i had to run and get more halfway.... but the passenger side is done.
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Got the door dressed back up! Old school cranks now!
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I had new window sweeps for my regal so I threw them on the outside, try to water tight it and remove the beat up chrome pieces. Looks a little more clean now.
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Even got the window all adjusted.
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Good day!

Wiring declutter operations are pretty much done so ill tuck it all away and start mocking up the cage front bars, see if i can tuck the dash bar behind the dash.
 
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