Would it be possible to tie your post-cat O2 sense wire to your pre-cat sense wire, with a resistor in line so the post-cat line would always show leaner? I have heard of this done in Panther body's to keep from replacing old catalytic converters.
Operation Lipstick on a Pig
- Thread starter fleming442
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That's an interesting concept; I'll have to look into it. 45 miles into work this morning, and no SES light.
Non OE coils are garbage in my experience.
My l67 fbird had a miss and I swapped a coil thinking thats what it was (turned out to be a broken valve spring). Got the engine fixed and it had a persistent miss under medium load/boost. Put the original l57 coil on and bam it ran awesome again.
Could try putting some GM l67 boost coils on it and see if its better. Word is l67 coils are hotter.
My l67 fbird had a miss and I swapped a coil thinking thats what it was (turned out to be a broken valve spring). Got the engine fixed and it had a persistent miss under medium load/boost. Put the original l57 coil on and bam it ran awesome again.
Could try putting some GM l67 boost coils on it and see if its better. Word is l67 coils are hotter.
Decided to fix something that's been nagging me. When I installed the 79 T/A wheel, it never sat right- straight down the road had the wheel at 11 o'clock. So, I set out to what was what with the 2 columns (both tilt, 1 79, 1 85). I bought one of those lock plate removal tools, and yanked the canceling cam out of T/A column. It is the same part as the 2002 Firebird cam from the donor car. The Carquest guy said it was the same part number from the 79 T/A to the 85 Bonneville as well. Huh. I pulled the wheel out of the Bonneville. Could it be the switch? A check with rockauto confirmed the same part number for the signal switch in each car. Now, I'm scratching my head as to why I can't move the wheel. The T/A adapter hub has a minimal tolerance hole for the horn button extension, so that can't be moved. I could have elongated it, but I wanted to do it right. Then, it came to me- the lock plate! Indeed they are different; the T/A one had a slot for the horn extension. So, I put the T/A lock plate in which let me rotate the cam. Wouldn't you know, I overshot, and it was almost to 1 o'clock. I made a mental note of one of the hub screws to the tach, so I'd have it right this time. It was pretty nerve racking trying to not break the plastic horn extension off, but the wheel is much straighter now. I'd post pics, but it ain't working for me again.
Suddenly I can't post pics when I use the Samsung browser on my S7. If I use Chrome it works fine.
Another small victory: I've been annoyed by a strange buzz in the dash since I did the engine swap that sounded like a dry speedo cable. The problem with that is that there is no cable; it's all electric (boogey, woogey)! While waiting for the kid's school to open, I heard some crap in the ashtray. I pulled 2 interior screws and some weird latch catch/ strike thing out, and...... NO MORE BUZZ! WOOHOO!
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Got started on the dash. First order of business is making the fillers for between the gauges and the future bezel.
I need to cut a few more of varying thicknesses and one for the heater controls and radio. The plan is to make the panel from sheet aluminum, paint these spacers black, use some wood veneer, use a 1/4 round router but to finish it out. Then, polish the aluminum reveal for a nice trim. It should look really nice if I can execute the vision in my head.
I need to cut a few more of varying thicknesses and one for the heater controls and radio. The plan is to make the panel from sheet aluminum, paint these spacers black, use some wood veneer, use a 1/4 round router but to finish it out. Then, polish the aluminum reveal for a nice trim. It should look really nice if I can execute the vision in my head.
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Yeah, sure I do. That was the 2nd draft. The 1st was way off. I lost my top bearing router bit, and my bottom bearing bit dulled out in no time flat.
Perseverance is key!
Perseverance is key!
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