if the bearing sits properly without the shims then the radius on the pinion is proper as it matched the radius on the race of the bearing
Pinion shim does not sit flat
- Thread starter Bailey28
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but the radius of either shouldn't matter, with a shim it place, it would put the bearing far enough away from any radius on the pinion.
I don't think machining it would compromise it, the easiest thing to do is enlarge shim inner diameter
I’m assuming you don’t have a press and a bearing tool to get the old one off. Take it somewhere to get the old one pressed off and start from there. You will then have your shim you need to get a starting point and you can also compare the pinions. I just got done a couple hours ago doing this same thing, only on a 12 bolt for my buddies Chevelle. Do you know how much shim thickness you need to get your pinion depth set? The bearing should be against your shims and they should be against your pinion. I don’t think you want to have that gap.
it the way GM machined it...here another with the same radius. You have the wrong shims
The new gears don't have a pinion depth punched into them. The only thing written by hand on the gears in white paint is the number ".116" on both the ring an pinion.
I wanted to start as close to the original shim thickenss as possible then work from there. I also have a pinion shim kit for bearing preload instead of ruining multiple crush washers.
I have a small press and a bearing tool. Getting the carrier bearings off wasn't that bad. I punched the old pinion races out of the housing. Everything looks worn to some degree however the rear end was absolutely silent at all times. No clunks, bangs, shimmies, whines, etc.
There is one single spacer on each side of the carrier bearings for preload. Each one has two yellow stripes on it. One is .243" and the other is .260". The carrier fell out with no effort after unbolting the caps. Ring gear backlash before touching anything was .012".
My concern is that when mocking up the pinion gear is that the larger shims will walk up onto the shoulder as the assembly moves around before tightening. This could pinch the shim(s) between the shoulder and backside of the ring gear causing a false reading.
This is why I thought the shims should nest perfectly flat against the base of the gear with no play on the shaft.
I wanted to start as close to the original shim thickenss as possible then work from there. I also have a pinion shim kit for bearing preload instead of ruining multiple crush washers.
I have a small press and a bearing tool. Getting the carrier bearings off wasn't that bad. I punched the old pinion races out of the housing. Everything looks worn to some degree however the rear end was absolutely silent at all times. No clunks, bangs, shimmies, whines, etc.
There is one single spacer on each side of the carrier bearings for preload. Each one has two yellow stripes on it. One is .243" and the other is .260". The carrier fell out with no effort after unbolting the caps. Ring gear backlash before touching anything was .012".
My concern is that when mocking up the pinion gear is that the larger shims will walk up onto the shoulder as the assembly moves around before tightening. This could pinch the shim(s) between the shoulder and backside of the ring gear causing a false reading.
This is why I thought the shims should nest perfectly flat against the base of the gear with no play on the shaft.
If you use the original shim that will most likely work. I forget what the common shim is but an old friend of mine used the same thickness for what he said was 90% or the rear ends. Why are you going to spend money on aftermarket gear sets when all you need is a few shims that fit?
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