Please help me out,86 regal failed Smog,Pic of results!

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Okay, the code 41 is like I thought, and involves the MAP sensor. This one can be checked with a digital multimeter. Don't use an analog multimeter or you will fry the ECU. Anyhow, the flowchart goes something like this:


1. Check to see if MAP sensor (vacuum sensor) voltage changes with the loss of vacuum supply ( pull the hose off and compare voltage before and after.) When you measure voltage at terminals a and b, it should change by more than one volt.

1A. Voltage had less than one volt change.

Fault in MAP sensor or wiring to it.



1B. Voltage more than one volt.

Could be a lot of things. Check the wiring for problems, could be a bad MAP sensor, a bad ground, or the problem could be excessive resistance in the distributor pickup coil. Could be a stuck MAP sensor which would evidence itself by a voltage that is the same with the ignition on and engine off as it is when it is running.

My thoughts: Check the MAP sensor first. The MAP sensor is used to detect load by the computer, thus it is likely part of the decision making operations of the ECU with regards to the fuel map. I would also look at the wiring very carefully. Computers are sensitive to resistance, and unfortunately these are old cars with old wiring, so wiring issues come with the territory. If there are any crimp type connectors in the circuits involved, it is likely that they are a source of trouble. For a computer, you need to solder the wires together then use heat shrink tubing to seal out moisture and insulate the connection. Other than that, you really need the original manuals or someone who knows what they are doing to troubleshoot this thing.

 

[robnoxiousauto]

pssssssssssssst. lil secret EGR VALVE IS OPENING TOO EARLY when the egr opens you're o2 goes down hc and co2 go way up. sorry for yelling

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

pssssssssssssst. lil secret EGR VALVE IS OPENING TOO EARLY when the egr opens you're o2 goes down hc and co2 go way up. sorry for yelling

Yes, but both the HC and CO are high in the 25mph test. It also has no oxygen measured in the exhaust, which is very rich. The analyzer points to the O2 sensor being right.

 

[robnoxiousauto]

I saw that I am the head tech at a very large shop up here in victoia b.c. canada first if you have a after market egr valve make sure the correct orifice is installed. If the egr is a factory replacement or original check you're vacuum diagrams like I said looks to me like egr flow excessive or early. As for thinking the tech ****ed with the readings it is next to impossible to do that. I see that some on above mentioned ignition timing that can cause some high hc and co but only if severely retarded . to check this start by setting you're base timing then with the timing light still hooked up rev the engine to about 2500 you're timing should advance 20 degrees. If not then check for stuck weights in the dist , and faulty vacuum advance.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Well, that's just it. There are no weights in the distributor. It gets all it's advance from the computer, which takes direction from the MAP sensor according to the factory service manual. The code 41 flowchart shows how to test the MAP sensor, which is why I said to go there first. If it is reading wrong, the ignition would become severely retarded at speed.

 

[robnoxiousauto]

to test that map sensor is actually pretty easy with voltmeter @ idle you should have about 1.4 volts and key on engine off you should have about 4.9 volts then you check the voltage to m ake sure climbs smooth while opening throttle with the motor running. I just ussually throw a test one in there it is easier

 

[86laidlow]

re

SHooooot,thanks for all the info guys,i was originally guessing that it might be the trottle positioning senor,map sensor or egr,my nox readings are also high indicating that the egr might be crap,it could also be a combination of all those things,dammit,I dont know what to do, If i replace the tps,map sensors,have the carb adjusted and buy an egr valve that will probably put me at about the same as if i mickey moused the test at a "special Smog" station,the difference between the two is that the "special Smog" 8) assures I will pass,,but the car is still running ritch and will probably keep giving me problems,but if i buy all these things,the car might still fail you dig, god damm,what to do what to do,what would you guys do? :?:

 

[8T7SS]

failed Smog

Well 86LL I would fix the rich condition! Code 45. The excess fuel is causing the high CO at the 25mph test. Sounds to me like you need a new carb of have it overhauled. I used to do lots of these back in the day. The E4ME carbs were kinda easy once you know what to look for. Someone has to know how to work on theose carbs in your area. The mixture screws were covered up when the went to the computer controled one. they however are still there. you have to remove the carb and cut the base plate to expose them to adjust the mixture manualy. If Iremember right alot of the parts were serviceable on those. Get the number of the carb and for around 75.00 you got the parts and then you could overhaul it. make sure to get a float also and a overhaul kit. ck307 kit and F20 float. part # front the site below
Go here to get the part off the internet. check the local parts store Carquest or Parts Plus, Napa but this web site looked good. Lots of info!!

http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/catalog/ ... index.html


Hope this Helps ya :wink:

 

[86laidlow]

re

would that carb with only 58k original miles be already gone enough to need a replacement or rebuild?I figured they lasted longer,I would really like to adjust it myself unless a new one is not that much,i have a lot of spcecial tools,including curbed long metal picks,and alot of specialty tools,If not i can probably improvise,just tell me what screw to adjust,how much of a turn to adjust it and where is it. Here are some pictures of the engine so you can see what i have and the carb so you can tell me where the screw to adjust are.

Looking at Front of carb

Looking at it from the drivers side

Looking at it from the passenger side,In the picture i circled a couple things,first, What is that box were the air lines go and is it electrical because i pulled on the part were the lines are connected and it pulled out a little,then i tried to push it back in,but no luck.Also what is the green plug and where does it connect,it was loose like that.

The car came with this shitty aluminum bendy pipe that goes from the intake to the block i think,it looks a little trashed,could this be a problem?

Thanks for the help im getting guys,im trying to post as much info as possible so that its easier for you guys to help me,thanks alot,if you could show me were the screws are by coping my pics and editing them with paint to point out the crew adjustment locations that would be even better.

 

[dan2286]

Just by looking at that carb, you need a rebuild. Having lower miles on a car that old most likely means it sat around for a long time and all of the gaskets in the carb dried out and are most likely leaking now.

I think that loose connector is from the coolant temp sensor. It is on the front of the intake manifold.

Thats really all I can answer.