OLDS Possible olds 425 engine purchase

[Kennybill]

The main reason I bought out costs is because when you upgrade the engine now you have to go right down the line, exhaust, transmission/converter, probably cross-member/driveshaft and rearend housing/type and don't forget the knick knacks. 🙂•》My most enjoyable cars were some of the cheaper builds. My opinion any more is have a fun/fairly fast street car or a drag strip only car. It's hard to have bought in one car. Your first priority is to check the bores in your block. That'll tell you if there is any possibility of re-using factory pistons. As you take it apart, number the pistons as to there bores. You'll find out your crankshaft condition also. Bag & tag your bolts/fasteners. Certain bolts are specific such as bolt that have a stud on the head aka one head bolt, one water pump bolt and don't loose any small spacers needed for accessory pulleys. Don't forget to oil stuff, things rust fast.

 

[fleming442]

Thread starter's said, "My intention would be for street driving, no strip or racing."
Now I don't want to be a bad person but 🙂•》he talked about pretty much using the stock parts with better cam and intake and now his options are up to either 500hp or 540hp. Hmm $5k in the engine, figure $3.5k in transmission/converter, $1.3k in headers/custom driveshaft, $2k ford 9" plus $1.5k for knick knacks. See how it adds up. But getting back to the subject, if the crankshaft is std/std then it is worth $200. I've sold 2 std/std to guys who did diesel builds with BTR because he'll only use a Virgin 425 crank.
It's a "slippery slope" with these Olds builds and if you're not careful it'll turn into a "cliff" without a bat suite. Hopefully the thread starter will chime in with his budget and final goals.

Will you shush?!!? Don't let him know all the secrets!!!

 

[Bitterman]

No no, would like access to all the secrets please.

I plan to wipe all surfaces with oil tonight. It was a nice craptastic day in indiana that had rain, sleet and snow in the same drive. Kept engine and all parts as dry as possible during transport.

Unfortunately the engine was disassembled so I do not have a reference on which bolts go where and which doubles as a stud. May need help on that when its assembly time. Engine did not have any brackets as well. So I'll be working on a stock system or maybe a junkyard assembled serp system if one exists for a 425.

I agree a good first step would be to get the pistons, crank and block checked out.

 

[fleming442]

May as well get it balanced while its it's there.

 

[Bitterman]

Absolutely.

 

[500/600]

No no, would like access to all the secrets please.

I plan to wipe all surfaces with oil tonight. It was a nice craptastic day in indiana that had rain, sleet and snow in the same drive. Kept engine and all parts as dry as possible during transport.

Unfortunately the engine was disassembled so I do not have a reference on which bolts go where and which doubles as a stud. May need help on that when its assembly time. Engine did not have any brackets as well. So I'll be working on a stock system or maybe a junkyard assembled serp system if one exists for a 425.

I agree a good first step would be to get the pistons, crank and block checked out.

If everything is usable including bore and pistons, plan on a couple grand to get it together with a new flat tappet cam, lifters, springs, timing chain, bearings, gaskets, and any needed machine work (conrods and crank and hone and valve job). It won’t have hardened seats unless previously done. And all of the stock pieces you are missing.

That’s no aluminum intake, good rods, forged pistons, better rings, moly main/head fasteners, carb, ignition parts, roller rockers, roller cam/lifters, better pushrods, aluminum heads, good headers...........................And the other at least $1000 I am forgetting. And like mentioned above like trans, converter, rearend, etc.

A 500hp/500tq engine is useless with a 200hp drivetrain.

 

[DRIVEN]

We're all glad you snagged it. Best of luck on your build.